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Here is a pic of the driveshaft installed after it was shortened. A lot more compression available. There are 3 inches of splines on the transfer case out put shaft. Plenty of room for compression and extension.

I put the slip yoke on the transfer and left the u joint off the pinion. Then I pulled the yoke away from the transfer case so that it would have 1 inch of compression and measured from the center of the cap on the yoke to the flat on the pinion and got 48 inches. I took my driveshaft in today and had it shortened to 48 inches. The shop was way faster than I thought they would be. Only took them 3 hours to get it done. My truck does drive better now but it still shakes a bit. I am going to get some pinion shims ordered and get them installed. I also did drive around in 4 high with the rear shaft removed and my issues were gone so one problem fixed and on to the next one.

Beautiful!

Had a good sunset this evening.

I end up watching some car shows like B*tchin Rides or Texas Metal. One project at a time. I like working in segments also and don’t move past that segment until I get it just the way I want it.

I tagged DB Offroad's official page.

It was buried back on page 7. Here you are:

Finally got the engine started, after chasing a no start problem for 2 days. Turns out I had not pushed the common rail pressure relief valve connector all the way in Found a 2.5 diesel radiator, so now I don't need to route the cooling hoses in a stupid way. Its damn hard getting the 2.5 inch intercooler pipes to fit between the lights and the body 150C33E3-EC8C-4ED6-95E9-5BA721AFFA94.mp4

Thanks

I've looked over Cruiser's page but I can't find your write up in Tech. Know where I can find it?

I keep meaning to look into that. But also I haven't had anyone willing to help me test them so that I can go forward with something like that and sealing them up again.

Ah sweet, man. Thanks. He's going to assemble a complete short block for about $2500.

Use all of your Renix parts on the HO block. I’ve done a write up on this in Tech and Cruiser has it on his website. It’s entirely bolt in, but you’ll have to use your Renix accessories, distributor, intake, exhaust, etc.

Sounds like a plan!

I forgot about the distributor, which is different and I just so happen to have one for the 91-01 engines my my garage. I assume it'll plug and play with my existing renix ignition parts.

So my 89' Renix engine essentially took a dump. Cracked cylinder head and now I discovered a bad piston/cylinder. I had bought a 1994 cylinder head (7120) and had a valve job and resurface done on it before I discovered the bad cylinder wall/piston (yea, I know...dumb mistake of not catching the bad block). I had port matched the 7120 head to mate with my 89 Renix intake manifold. My 89 block is a 53005535 by the way. There's a dude nearby that has a freshly machined, ready-to-go 53008405 block. Its my understanding that these blocks are from 91-01 XJs. It's bored .40" over. I've got pics and video of it. Will this block fit in my 1989 Comanche? I'm trying to think of what would not make it a plug and play...Motor mounts, Knock sensor, oil filter housing, water pump, maybe? If it'll go in with no problem, then the plan would be to put on my 7120 cylinder head and run my Renix intake setup. Anything come to mind with this idea, fellas?

Another Central American beater, this one is on rt 13 in Coatepeque, Guatemala at what is now a heavy equipment mechanic. I couldn’t find anyone there, or I might have tried to trade grills or wheels. The factory roll bar is missing, and the body is in rough shape, but it’s registered, and looks like it’s been moved recently. its been there for at least 7 years according to google street view.

Oh, that's awesome! I've updated my post, but I'll go ahead and shoot him the originals too

Walk-Around and current status of the build:

Once you have the rear driveshaft out, you can take it for a rip in 4hi, see if the rear shaft missing makes a difference. If it’s been hammering against the transfer case it may be bent or something, and out of balance. I’m also not sure the standard driveshaft length charts we have necessarily apply to the later sealed output style transfer cases. And I don’t know either that the 242 is a perfect length match for the 231, or just close enough to not be a problem in most cases. I want to say when I swapped my 231 to an early-style 242 the seal was cleaning off more of the yoke than before, possibly by as much as 1/2”. But that was a long time ago. The BA10 vs AX15 may not be a perfect exact match either, Advance Adapters only guarantees their swap kit to be within 1/4”. But with as many variables in configuration as you have changed from stock, I think it’s important to do your own measurement instead of relying on a chart of stock lengths. 1/4 or an 1/8” from stock here or there might not matter individually but together the accumulated error may be too much.

Ahh

I understand that an '86 would have TBI. It wouldn't if I were to do a rebuild. I hate the Jeep TBI,, and I would much prefer to have a carburetor -- so that's what I would use.

Good place to start. Pun intended.

Found this and after I measured my drive shaft I need it shortened about 3/4 of an inch. My driveshaft measures 48 3/4. I need it to be 48. There must be a length difference between the new and old style transfer cases. Can any one confirm this? I am pretty sure it is the original driveshaft and axle. The previous owner swapped in an AX15. I swapped in a new style NP242 from the original NP231. I didn't have a picture right now but the wheel is pretty close to center of the wheel well. Maybe just a hair towards the front.

Iacv could also be an issue. A good TB cleanup may help.