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Drahcir495

Drahcir495's Build-up (Outer Axle Seal- Page 22)

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I guess I never started a build-up page for my Comanche? :nuts:

 

After sitting at the body shop for going on two years, I decided to bring the Comanche home. Learn from my mistake; never pay up front :cry:.

 

Introductions first - an 1989 Pioneer long bed with the Metric Ton package. It has the I6, BA10 transmission, 231 transfercase, front D30, and a Rear D44.

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My goals are to have it re-repainted, add a Rubicon Express 5.5 MJ lift, 33'' tires, AX15 transmission, add a front D44, , Eaton E-lockers F&R, and 4:56. I have plenty of other upgrades in mind, it is just a basic overview of my future plans.

I have made several upgrades already in the few weeks that I have had her back. It is going to take me a while to catch up with my progress, but I am loving it! - Rich

 

1/09 I thought it would be nice to add a linked index to my build thread now that it is in the double digits:

 

Page 1

Added XJ Tilt Column & Grant Steering Wheel

Replaced Headliner

Junk Yard Tip; Hood Support Clip & XJ Under hood Light

Refurbishing XJ 2 Door Bucket Seats

Truck Bed Box

Husky Liners

Page 2

Walker Evans Wheels & MTZ Tires

Rusted Out Floor Board Repair

New Carpet

XJ Center Console

Bucket Seats Installed

Page 3

Mag Light Mounting

New RockCrusher 44 Rear Diff Cover

Eaton E-locker Front Dana 44 Install

Page 4

97 ZJ V8 Steering Upgrade

Front Tow Plate & Tow Hooks

Page 5

Junk Yard Tip #2

CB Install

98 XJ Door Seals

PA Speaker & Jumper Cable Quick Disconnect

Page 6

Courtesy Light Restoration

Page 7

93 XJ 3 Piece Grill & Brush Guard

Camber Fix

Page 8

SW2’s Shifter Knob Upgrade

RE Lift Kit Install

Rear Dana 44 Build-up w/Eaton E-locker

Page 9

Broken Shifter Knob Fix

Mad4WD Bracket Kit Installed on a Ford 9”

JKS Relocation Sway Bar Disconnect Brackets & Sway Bar Installed

Page 10

Fist Pictures of ProtoFab Rear MJ Bumper

Page 11

Test Fitting ProtoFab Rear MJ Bumper

33 inch Tire in Stock Spare Location

ProtoFab Rear MJ Bumper Powder Coated & Installed

CB Antenna Mount

License Plate Bracket

Page 12

Temp Seat Tilt Fix

Chicofluentes0224 Napa Overflow Bottle Install w/Macs Replacement Bottle

Upgraded Headlight Wiring Harness & Side Marker Light Mod

Page 13

Topper Time

Page 14

Light Wheeling

Page 15

Brake Switch Connector Repair

Eaton E-locker Switch Install

Flexing

GC V8 Sway Bar Upgrade

Page 16

Shortening Disconnects

Correct Sway Bar Bushings

Page 17

Update Pictures ~ Gator & Camel

NP231 Speedo Gear Swap

New O2 Sensor

Replacing Harmonic Balancer

Wiper Motor

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I picked up a tilt steering column from a buddy of mine to put into the Comanche. It came out of an 1989 XJ with an automatic transmission. The column was Maroon, so I decided to dye it black with some SEM paint. Then I attached a Grant steering wheel to it.

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Out with the old -

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And in with the new -

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More progress to come, Rich

 

Update - I replace the stock horn button on the Grant steering wheel with one that says Jeep. It now looks like this -

302913302.jpg

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I had a bit of time this weekend to replace my headliner and sun visors. I picked up a set of vanity sun visors, and the overhead console, from a pick-n-pull XJ. My headliner was trashed, so I picked up some headliner material from, humm :oops: humm, Joanns Fabrics.

 

Here are a few pictures from the restoration -

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I used 3M Foam Fast adheasive to attach the fabric. I made sure to coat the healiner and the foam backing in 6 inch increments. If you try this at home ;) , do not press on the fabric in a way that compresses the foam material. Just enough to ensure that the two are in contact with each other.

 

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The vanity visors -

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Once again, I used SEM to change the color of the gray trim to match my blue trim -

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The new visors are shorter than the sock ones, and they have a different mounting system. In order for these spiffy sun visors to work, I would need to fab up some sort of blocks to raise the clip mounts. I am not that creative, so I cheated 8). I cut the factory steel mounting system out of a totaled MJ with some sheet metal pliers. I then attached it {using the existing factory holes to line it up correctly} with some pop rivits.

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With all the material fastened, I was ready for the intall.

Before-

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During {I am not proud of the use of duct tape here} -

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After -

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Afterthoughts and obsevations ~ I am not a professional, at all. I have to say, I am proud of the job that I did. The color blends a lot better than the pictures portray. It must be the flash, because it looks good otherwise. I added some more velcro to the missing pieces in the back; don't think it helped. The front velcro pieces were very important. The drivers side has a supprt cup thingy that really helped align the headliner. I still need to hook up the power to the vanity lights, but I will first need to get the power back in the cab - can't figure that one out :roll: . I hope the glue will hold! I will find that out in time. I wished I had put some paint on the spots where the paint flaked off on the back window frame, it kills the shot :headpop: .

More to come - Rich

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That dang little plastic clip that the hood support rod clips into, just kept breaking. So, I grabbed a metal clip off a never XJ and installed it. It snapped right in, it just sits a bit lower. Works good, would work a lot better if some of the air conditoning crap was not in the way.

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While I was in there I put in a factory under hood light from an XJ. It works great :D The light is tethered to the base, so you can pull it out and move it all around the engine compartment. And it also has a magnet attached to it for hands free lighting!

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It is attached to my new cowl hood jamminz.gif . It was obviously missed by the painter. - Rich

 

6/1 - I modified the under hood light today. I spliced in a toggle switch so that I won't kill the battery when I am working in the garage. ->

100_1354.jpg

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I went to the pick-n-pull some time back and found a set of factory MJ bucket seats. I already had a complete passenger side done, but I still needed the drivers side seat and seat brackets. I decided not to miss out on this rare opportunity, and I picked them both up along with the seat brackets. When I get home, I realized that the MJ seats have a strip of carpet along the back. That is cool and all, but the other bucket I refurbished did not.

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Instead of destroying a set of original MJ buckets, I decided to wait until I found another two door XJ to pop up in the pick-n-pull. I found a 4 door XJ this weekend with excellent seats in it. I decided to just take the seat cover off the 4 door seat and try to make it work on the 2 door seat frame. During this time, I did find out that the bottom seat cushions are identical for the pass and driver sides. The covers, however, are not. I swapped in a passenger side bottom cushion to the drivers side. It worked out perfectly :brows: The only differences I can see between the uppers covers on the 2 door vs. 4 door version is the lack of the slit for the release knob -

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I am going to make a small opening with a razor knife; that should correct the problem. Another difference is in the way the bottoms are secured. The 2 door cover uses velcro to secure the bottom to it's opposing piece, while the 4 door uses a system of wires to attach to the fixed seat frame. I don't believe this is going to be an issue -

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I began by taking off the reclining lever with a small screw driver

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After I removed that, I moved on to the two head rest adjusters at the top of the seat

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This piece can be removed by reaching up into the seat, and with the appropriate tool :oops: , colapsing the tabs so it can be pulled free.

Looking into the top of the seat -

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Then I moved on to the two wires that hold the side bolsters on. Just unhook them from the seat frame, and then thread them out of the loops and wire straps. The will empty straight out the bottom.

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Then it was just a matter of carefully peeling the cover off the frame and foam bolsters -

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It should end up looking like this -

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I found that the release mechanism needed a bit of work to get it into shape. I also noticed that a spot weld broke on the frame, so I am going to try to have it fixed before I begin to reassemble the seat with the new cover. To be continued . . .

 

2/9 Worked on the seat a bit tonight. During the week I put a base coat of the SEM on the seat covers, so I would be ready to re-asemble the seats and touch up after. I also had the frame welded where the spot weld broke. Found another slight difference between the seat covers. The opening at the bottom of the bolsters are a tad smaller on the 4 door covers, but it won't matter all that much -

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I needed to mark the spot for the reclining knob before I could place the new 4 door seat cover on the 2 door seat frame. I found the area where the knob will exit in the top of the seat. It is in this area -

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Then I used an awl the make a piont of reference for the final cut

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Got it very close to the factory location

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I eased the seat cover onto its new frame and started to press the knob throught the covering -

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After I refitted the cover, I secured the side bolsters back in place -

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The bottom, like I stated in my previous post, are slightly different. The two door seat covers are secured at the bottom with velcro. I would need to find another way to correct this.

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I just cut a hole for the release latch arm and zip tie it to a support bar inside -

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I had a few extra long Zip ties theat I used to attach the other side to the same internal brace -

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2/27 Passenger side seat frame needed some dressing up, so I added the lower plastic cover peice -

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It gives the installed seat a finished look -

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I still have to add a few pictures of the steps that I forgot. TBC

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The other day at the junk yard I saw an ingenuous way to attach a truck bed toolbox to the bed rail. They are 1/4 inch 20 Jack Nuts. Pretty cool little things -

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You drill out a 7/16'' hole in the top of the bed rail and slip these things in.

They are designed to collapse and lock themselves in.

 

I took every freaking possible measurement to get this thing lined up. Nothing on the bed box was square/consistent from one side to the other. I eventually just line it up so the center of the box was inline with the center of the rear window like this -

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Then I measure and marked the holes. I did not think about the inner bed wall, and the bit walked :headpop: on the first hole. The other holes went ok, and I was able to start on installing the Jack nuts. The 1/4'' 20 bolts were to short, and I could not get the socket around them in the hole. Without the box on , and the correct length bolts, I F-up all but one of the Jack Nuts -

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This one came out pretty good, and I am sure the 3 others will be a piece of cake ~ now that I know what I am doing :roll: . I am going to pick up 4 more Jack Nuts, and some 2" cap bolts this week. TBC

 

I picked up some spare Jack Nuts, correctly installed them, and then test fit the cap screw -

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Looking like it may work :brows: . Then I went and picked up a bedliner -

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Drilled a few hole in the line and test fit the cap screws again -

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2/17 I got the box in and secured -

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I am always leary to purchase items that are only listed as fitting the Cherokee. I have been debating on if I should try the XJ Husky floor liners for the MJ. I broke down and ordered a set in black for the pre-1993 range -

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I already had a single Husky liner from an unknown year XJ, and it was not the best fit. I now believe it is for a newer XJ. These are nice! It appears they will be a perfect fit, once I put the new carpet in -

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Notice the kick panel light in the picture? Look on page 2 of BLHTAZ's thread here -> http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... highlight=

I want to thank MJeff87 for the idea; Thanks man :cheers: - TBC

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495, nice work on the headliner/visors, especially the visors. Funny, I just swapped out some seatcovers also and took pics of all the same things you did for a DIY post. Now I don't have too! Ha! Thanks

 

Yeah, MJs have that carpet patch because the vinyl would rub through and tear where they rub up against the back of the cab. Also, an fyi for anybody else doing seat swaps. The black tubes that hold the headrests can be different. On my 88 Laredo, I have the see-through headrests, so the end of the black tubes are open because the height of the headrest is less than a full cushioned one, therefore the posts go farther down. the seats i did some cover swaps with were from an 87 and the black tubes were closed off, so my headrests would not go all the way down on those. Fortunately, all I had to do was shred some knuckles and swap out the black tubes and I was good to go.

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Hey WahooSteeler, thank you! The plastic ring on the mirror was a biatch. I broke two of them before I could get one to separate. I did not know that about the tubes, good bit of advise. I guess I was just lucky, I always picked the ones with the see-through headrests. Lol, don't let this stop you from doing your own DIY post :cheers:

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Lookin good,,, I'm going to hijack someones idea of covering my head liner with a Jolly Rogers flag and I's scared as he!! to take my headliner down without it cracking all up. It looks like the only thing holding it up is velcro... Any pointers you'd like to throw out on taking it out????

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Thanks 90MJext & jtdesigns :cheers:.

 

Pointers on taking the headliner out, no problem. This is what worked for me :D ~ There is a clip on the drivers side, behind the trim, that will help support the headliner on that side. I wish I had taken a picture of it. I would remove all the supporting trim on the drivers side. This could be a bit time consuming, but it makes for an easy extraction. To be honest, I already had it apart for the speaker and carpet install. Then move on to the passengers side trim. Lower the headliner down on to the pass side seat. It should be supported on the DS with that clip "thingy." I will tell you that the velcro on the front of the headliner is a bear. Don't force it apart; you run the risk of bending or separating the board. I used my hand to ease the velcro apart, through the front of the liner {entering by the windshield, then moving it along the length of the windsheild - if that makes sense?}. Then unhook the liner from the clip on the drivers side, and carefully removed it at an angle. I managed to unhook the headliner from the pass side and was able to remove it from there. The lack of a steering colum and steering wheel made it a breeze. I hope that helps? - Rich

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500 MJ   

The headliner turned out great!

 

I also have a set of those husky liners. I love em, especially when its wintertime.

 

Keep up the good work.

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The headliner turned out great!

 

I also have a set of those husky liners. I love em, especially when its wintertime.

 

Keep up the good work.

:cheers: I don't know how I missed your build up thread, :eek: :bowdown: I caught up with it this morning! -> http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... highlight=. LOVE your spare tire/High Lift combo carrier jamminz.gif - Rich

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Thanks 90MJext & jtdesigns :cheers:.

 

Pointers on taking the headliner out, no problem. This is what worked for me :D ~ There is a clip on the drivers side, behind the trim, that will help support the headliner on that side. I wish I had taken a picture of it. I would remove all the supporting trim on the drivers side. This could be a bit time consuming, but it makes for an easy extraction. To be honest, I already had it apart for the speaker and carpet install. Then move on to the passengers side trim. Lower the headliner down on to the pass side seat. It should be supported on the DS with that clip "thingy." I will tell you that the velcro on the front of the headliner is a bear. Don't force it apart; you run the risk of bending or separating the board. I used my hand to ease the velcro apart, through the front of the liner {entering by the windshield, then moving it along the length of the windsheild - if that makes sense?}. Then unhook the liner from the clip on the drivers side, and carefully removed it at an angle. I managed to unhook the headliner from the pass side and was able to remove it from there. The lack of a steering colum and steering wheel made it a breeze. I hope that helps? - Rich

 

 

Cool Thanks, I had a lite day at school today, and think I'm going to start on removing that sucker right now.. Thanks again!!!

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500 MJ   

If you have a spare axle shaft laying around and some scrap steel, its a totally free mod that you can make if you have access to a welder as well. I got some grease gun clamps from TSC to hold the shovel in there above the hi-lift as well and bolted my combo sledge-maul on the bed. I've used each one of the tools so far off road and Its so nice to have the rack in the back to carry them on.

 

Seems like you've got some good ideas of your own with the speakers in the door handles and all. Take my design and run with it, improve it for all I care, it's not copyrighted by any means! :cheers:

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If you have a spare axle shaft laying around and some scrap steel, its a totally free mod that you can make if you have access to a welder as well. I got some grease gun clamps from TSC to hold the shovel in there above the hi-lift as well and bolted my combo sledge-maul on the bed. I've used each one of the tools so far off road and Its so nice to have the rack in the back to carry them on.

 

Seems like you've got some good ideas of your own with the speakers in the door handles and all. Take my design and run with it, improve it for all I care, it's not copyrighted by any means! :cheers:

 

Not trying to Hijack but anyone got pics of the speakers in the door handles?

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If you have a spare axle shaft laying around and some scrap steel, its a totally free mod that you can make if you have access to a welder as well. I got some grease gun clamps from TSC to hold the shovel in there above the hi-lift as well and bolted my combo sledge-maul on the bed. I've used each one of the tools so far off road and Its so nice to have the rack in the back to carry them on.

 

Seems like you've got some good ideas of your own with the speakers in the door handles and all. Take my design and run with it, improve it for all I care, it's not copyrighted by any means! :cheers:

 

Not trying to Hijack but anyone got pics of the speakers in the door handles?

 

Like this?? photochoped...

 

1234567.jpg

 

 

$500 beat me to it.....

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If you have a spare axle shaft laying around and some scrap steel, its a totally free mod that you can make if you have access to a welder as well. I got some grease gun clamps from TSC to hold the shovel in there above the hi-lift as well and bolted my combo sledge-maul on the bed. I've used each one of the tools so far off road and Its so nice to have the rack in the back to carry them on.

 

Seems like you've got some good ideas of your own with the speakers in the door handles and all. Take my design and run with it, improve it for all I care, it's not copyrighted by any means! :cheers:

 

Not trying to Hijack but anyone got pics of the speakers in the door handles?

$500 MJ, I may be getting back with you on that design 8)

 

Watchamakalit, you need to go to CW's build up page, and often :brows: He has the complete write up, with pictures, on page 13? Try here -> http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... &start=180 That is where I got the idea for the tweeter location - Rich

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500 MJ   

Ahh yes, CW has lots of good ideas of his own as well.

 

For that matter, the whole site is filled with them :cheers:

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I got my new Walker Evans Street wheels in a week or so ago. They are the 17x8.5 simulated bead locks -

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I picked up four new 33x12.5x17 Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ radials and had them mounted & balanced on Sat. -

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I am trying out Photobucket below -

100_0905.jpg

I will not know how they ride until I get the lift onto the truck. TBC- Rich

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Got A lot done this weekend jamminz.gif Some time back, I hit the pick-n-pull with a sawsall and cut out a good section of floor from a donor MJ. My floors had rusted out due to the windshield leak, door gasket leak, rear window seal leak. . . :cry: About the only thing that the body shop guy got around to doing, was welding in that scavenged floor section.

Driverside before :eek: -

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Only picture (partial) of the replacement floor -

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After -

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Pass. side before (notice the white powder; it was insecticide. I had a "slight" carpenter ant infestation on top of nesting rodents) -

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After -

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Today, for a McMuffin and a subway sub ;) , I got bwatsoncj to finish the seat brackets and floor jamminz.gif

We laid out the new seat supports -

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Then bwatsoncj worked a little of his magic -

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It was an awesome job, and the seat sat perfect on the new supports -

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With the floor complete, I was able to start to install the new carpet I got from JC Whitney -

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It is starting to look good. I will have to add a bit more detail to the write-up after I get some sleep. I will post more as the project moves along. Thanks again bwatsoncj :cheers:

2/18 Got the full center console in -

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Just test fitting the seats -

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3/22 I just came across an awesome write up on istalling the full center console from 88XJSport in the DIY forum here->

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=9011. 88XJSport's write-up provides easy to follow instructions, with a ton of pictures jamminz.gif . The steps involved in his installation (in an XJ) were almost identical to the installation into my 89 MJ. I recommend taking a look at it if you are considering this upgrade- Rich

6/1 I just finished the interior and everything works - right now :roll: ->

100_1348.jpg

I just need to figure out the wiring on the new switches for the Eaton lockers. I went with a rocker type switch instead of the push button switch provided with the kit. I just need to figure out the wiring on the new switches for the Eaton lockers. I went with a rocker type switch instead of the push button switch provided with the kit.

I also got around to tossing out my first bucket seat ->

100_1349.jpg

I don’t think I will need it again :brows: - Rich

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