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Tbarber16

Prerunner Build

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On 11/1/2017 at 6:09 PM, carnuck said:

 


If you don’t have longarms, then the tracbar will push/ pull depending on how far off level to the axle it is.


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I’ve got long arms. Rustys jeepspeed kit actually. I bought a rustys track bar too, with a drop bracket. 

I'm pretty sure the angle the track bar is at is too severe. And it’s moving the axle side to side. I guess I’ll have to order a new track bar and mount it on the top side of the axle. And hope that it won’t come in contact with anything. I’ll do some research. 

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How is the jeepspeed 4 link kit from rusty's? Does it work well with your lift? I know you are building a prerunner but how is the flex?

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On 11/8/2017 at 1:41 PM, Swampy said:

How is the jeepspeed 4 link kit from rusty's? Does it work well with your lift? I know you are building a prerunner but how is the flex?

Haven’t really tested the flex much. Doesn’t seem too bad. I’ll have to stick a hi-lo under one of the front tires and check. Gotta do that anyway to figure out where to mount my bumpstops.

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UPDATE

The updates are gonna get really boring so bear with me. 

I adjusted the links the other day and ended up removing the passenger upper link all together. Seems to feel a little better going over bumps and through the suspension cycle. So I’ll probably run it a 3-link setup for now. 

I took the front fenders and header panel off. And found some real crap... i knew the truck was in an accident because the paint is chipped in a few spots and it’s blue underneath. But a lot of the truck has been replaced. The header panel. Fenders. Radiator support. Hood. Possibly doors. And everything that the fenders and header panel mount to has been boogered up. I can see that the frame is crunches in the front drivers side in front of the coil all the way to the bumper. And the wheel well has had some serious massaging with a hammer. I’ll post some pictures. But this really tears me up. Not sure how I was so oblivious. BUT, the build won’t end. I wasn’t planning on this being a show truck. Just a toy to play with while i build a beamed, v8 comanche. 

Anyways. Got the mechanical fan removed and the electric radiator fan mounted. It’s gonna fit nicely behind the crooked grill so I’m happy about that. Just need to do the wiring for it. Gonna mount my hella 1000’s on the front bumper and run the wires for that as well. Next time i have the truck in the shop. 

I worked on the tranny cooler for a bit. Mocking it up and such. It will be next to the fuel cell in the bed. And the fuel cell. That’s for another day. 

 

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I saw in a previous post that you're thinking about cutting through the inner fender well to allow for a longer shock. As you're finding out with the crash damage, this is a unibody and all of the structure is important to the chassis rigidity. The strongest parts of the front section are the sides of the cowl, and the upper shock mount/spring seat area. If you're going to remove some of that area, have a good plan for how you'll add back in some structural strength. I would first consider lowering the shock mount position on the axle before seriously messing with the upper mount area. 

 

How much front suspension travel are you going for? What length shocks? Unless you're planning to run coilovers a shock longer than your spring movement is wasted. On our 4643 race XJ we ran 13" front shocks, no upper mount modification, but I designed a dual coil spring setup to be able to use a shock that long.

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On 11/11/2017 at 1:01 AM, Goatman said:

I saw in a previous post that you're thinking about cutting through the inner fender well to allow for a longer shock. As you're finding out with the crash damage, this is a unibody and all of the structure is important to the chassis rigidity. The strongest parts of the front section are the sides of the cowl, and the upper shock mount/spring seat area. If you're going to remove some of that area, have a good plan for how you'll add back in some structural strength. I would first consider lowering the shock mount position on the axle before seriously messing with the upper mount area. 

 

How much front suspension travel are you going for? What length shocks? Unless you're planning to run coilovers a shock longer than your spring movement is wasted. On our 4643 race XJ we ran 13" front shocks, no upper mount modification, but I designed a dual coil spring setup to be able to use a shock that long.

Thanks for all that info! I’ll definitely reconsider cutting all that inner fender well out. 

Id like to run 12” stroke triple bypasses in the front. And now that you mention it I think by lowering the bottom shock mount a little, I’ll be able to achieve the space for the bypass to get almost its whole movement. I’ve still got some measuring to do. Like I said I’d really like to run 12” bypasses but if I need to I’ll go town to a 10”. 

Ill have to make some cardboard cutouts of extended and compressed shock lengths and see what kind of room I’m going to need. 

 

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UPDATE

 

A few things happened. 

I got my trans cooler plumbed. It’s just laying in the bed for now. I’ll throw some pictures up. Feel free to judge. 

I also removed the mechanical engine fan and replaced it with a single electric fan mounted in the center of the radiator behind the grill. Not wired yet because i want to test the amp draw and add a relay accordingly so I don’t burn the truck down. I was driving it around just to get a feel for how it’s going to handle and overheated it. Oops. 

I also picked up some PRP seats yesterday and have those sitting in the truck for now. I have to make brackets for them. Do you guys think I can modify some Cherokee brackets to work? I’d like them to be very sturdy so I might just have to weld some brackets straight to the floor and bolt the seats to them. We’ll see. 

Plans for the next few weeks are to get the bed removed and start mocking up the fuel cell. And on that note. What is everyone’s experience with in-line fuel pumps. Rumor has it the E2000 pump works well. My only question would be; What changes do you have to make to the fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator to handle the max pressure of 95 psi? And also do you just take two wires from the existing pump plug and use them for the new pump? Any info would be appreciated. Il’l do my research as well. 

 

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Well. The site is being dumb. Even though the picture of the trans cooler is less than 1.95mb. And even though I’ve sized it down to 200kb to where it’s blurry as hell. I still can’t upload it. So here’s a picture of the lines where I tapped into the existing trans cooler. Dual coolers FTW! 

B22BB072-1719-4CFE-8128-7B4C3420AB6A.jpeg

9DB82DD2-1681-4968-BCEC-693A022301EA.jpeg

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Okay. I refreshed the page and it decided it was okay I put the trans cooler picture in. Cool. Like I said. Feel free to judge. I’m always open to new ideas. And yes I know. It can’t lay flat like that. I’ll adjust it so it has airflow. When the bed is off. 

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