Jump to content

Jeep Comanche Acceleration Issues


Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone, 

Recently I have been having hesitation issues with my truck. It is a 1989 Pioneer with a rebuilt '93 HO motor swapped in. However, it is still using all renix sensors. 

 

My issues began about a month ago, after I accelerated quickly from a stoplight. When I slowed back down, I noticed that when slowly accelerating between 1500 and 2300 RPM my engine would hesitate and backfire. If I accelerated quickly, this was not an issue. I suspected that the TPS was having issues after reading online, so I cleaned the throttle body and tried to adjust the TPS. I could not rotate the sensor enough to get it to my required voltage, which was .83 volts. I then bought a new TPS and am still having the same issue of being unable to get it to the required voltage. I have also cleaned the dipstick ground and crimped new eyes on. 

 

Would this cause my rough slow acceleration? Why can I not clock the TPS enough to get to the required voltage? 

 

Also, I attempted to get on the highway the other day and the engine stalled out once I got to about 60 mph. 

 

If anyone has any ideas about what could be causing this issue, I would appreciate it. I am near wits end with this truck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies. My TPS voltage from back-probing was 4.87. From what I understand this is within a reasonable limit. I have not adjusted the Idle Set Screw, however the butterfly opens and closes no problem. Is there a procedure for testing the MAP sensor? I don't recall seeing one. 

 

When it comes to the CPS, I have not had any issues when no start at all. However, I will test it when I have a chance. To me it seems like a fuel issue, due to the backfiring and popping I hear at the problem RPM range. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

27 minutes ago, 87MJTIM said:

Is the catalytic converter clogged? I had similar symptoms with poor acceleration and backfiring. 

 Catalytic converter was gutted by PO. 

 

28 minutes ago, Ωhm said:

4.87vdc is a good reading when connected to TPS (back-probing). If its a stock renix TB, use cruiser Tip #14 . Easiest way to check MAP is with a known good one. Check MAP vacuum line.

H.O. throttle body. I will check MAP vacuum line in a few minutes. I will keep everyone updated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just took another look at my truck. Found about 2 ohms of resistance between back-probed TPS and negative battery terminal. Re-cleaned the dipstick ground thoroughly and that reduced resistance to the point where my cheap multimeter is not reading any. This brought my voltage on the TPS when adjusting up to .81 v. My voltage I need to be able to adjust to is .83v. Is that much of a difference negligible, or will it cause my issue? I can not clock the TPS any more. 

 

Line between manifold and MAP is in good condition. Is the MAP sensor responsible for fuel/air mixture along with the 02 sensor? If I remember correctly backfiring means that the mix is too lean. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I experienced bucking (although I never heard a backfire explosion noise) and dying issues (driving along and the engine just stopped running, no rhyme or reason). The problem for me was between the EGR and transducer, coil (original at the time), distributor cap and rotor, plug wires, and plugs. I say between because:

 

The spring in the EGR transducer was rusted to dust. The only way to get a new transducer is with a new EGR.

 

While waiting for the EGR valve to come it, I broke a plug wire. So I had to wait for everything to come in and replaced all those items at one time. Problem was solved, although I really would have liked to know which was the culprit (it is possible I had a more than one issue). Upon visual inspection, I was pretty sure one of my plug wires was making poor contact with the plug.

 

I checked, cleaned, tested as many things as I could according to Cruisers tips first. So that would be a good place to start if you haven't done so already.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, comanche1989 said:

This brought my voltage on the TPS when adjusting up to .81 v. My voltage I need to be able to adjust to is .83v. Is that much of a difference negligible, or will it cause my issue? I can not clock the TPS any more. 

 

Line between manifold and MAP is in good condition. Is the MAP sensor responsible for fuel/air mixture along with the 02 sensor? If I remember correctly backfiring means that the mix is too lean. 

 

If you can reach .81vdc when swinging the TPS, you can set .83vdc for your closed throttle setting.

 

MAP sensor play a major role in the fuel/air calculation, along with TPS and engine RPM's. Engine timing also uses these variables. O2 sensor controls the predetermined injector pulse width (mS) by either adding or subtracting time within its range of authority. Backfiring can be caused by many things.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, SVPete said:

I experienced bucking (although I never heard a backfire explosion noise) and dying issues (driving along and the engine just stopped running, no rhyme or reason). The problem for me was between the EGR and transducer, coil (original at the time), distributor cap and rotor, plug wires, and plugs. I say between because:

 

The spring in the EGR transducer was rusted to dust. The only way to get a new transducer is with a new EGR.

 

While waiting for the EGR valve to come it, I broke a plug wire. So I had to wait for everything to come in and replaced all those items at one time. Problem was solved, although I really would have liked to know which was the culprit (it is possible I had a more than one issue). Upon visual inspection, I was pretty sure one of my plug wires was making poor contact with the plug.

 

I checked, cleaned, tested as many things as I could according to Cruisers tips first. So that would be a good place to start if you haven't done so already.

EGR was deleted when I when to a H.O. motor. I have done most of the renix tips. I will however double check all wires. They are fairly new. 

17 hours ago, Ωhm said:

 

If you can reach .81vdc when swinging the TPS, you can set .83vdc for your closed throttle setting.

 

MAP sensor play a major role in the fuel/air calculation, along with TPS and engine RPM's. Engine timing also uses these variables. O2 sensor controls the predetermined injector pulse width (mS) by either adding or subtracting time within its range of authority. Backfiring can be caused by many things.

How would I set .83 for a closed throttle position when I can not get the TPS to clock any more? Adjust the idle set screw? I will be buying a new MAP sensor come payday to swap in. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/19/2017 at 4:21 PM, comanche1989 said:

Just took another look at my truck. Found about 2 ohms of resistance between back-probed TPS and negative battery terminal. Re-cleaned the dipstick ground thoroughly and that reduced resistance to the point where my cheap multimeter is not reading any. This brought my voltage on the TPS when adjusting up to .81 v. My voltage I need to be able to adjust to is .83v. Is that much of a difference negligible, or will it cause my issue? I can not clock the TPS any more. 

 

Line between manifold and MAP is in good condition. Is the MAP sensor responsible for fuel/air mixture along with the 02 sensor? If I remember correctly backfiring means that the mix is too lean. 

 

You mentioned that you could reach .81vdc. That's less than .83vdc. TPS output voltage should vary between .83vdc (CT) to 4.???vdc (WOT). Our you saying that .81vdc is the highest voltage you can read? Hold off on that MAP sensor till this is sorted out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/19/2017 at 1:21 PM, comanche1989 said:

Just took another look at my truck. Found about 2 ohms of resistance between back-probed TPS and negative battery terminal. Re-cleaned the dipstick ground thoroughly and that reduced resistance to the point where my cheap multimeter is not reading any. This brought my voltage on the TPS when adjusting up to .81 v. My voltage I need to be able to adjust to is .83v. Is that much of a difference negligible, or will it cause my issue? I can not clock the TPS any more. 

 

Line between manifold and MAP is in good condition. Is the MAP sensor responsible for fuel/air mixture along with the 02 sensor? If I remember correctly backfiring means that the mix is too lean. 

Okay, so one of the reasons you have trouble clocking the TPS is that it is a modified set-up.

What is your vacuum source for the MAP?

 

.81 volts should be fine.

A bad TPS shouldn't cause acceleration issues though. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, cruiser54 said:

Okay, so one of the reasons you have trouble clocking the TPS is that it is a modified set-up.

What is your vacuum source for the MAP?

 

.81 volts should be fine.

A bad TPS shouldn't cause acceleration issues though. 

 

MAP vacuum source is the closest nipple on the H.O. Intake. I’m fairly certain the location is not an issue, as I have put 10,000 or so miles on the engine since I put it in. Should I go ahead and spring the money for a new MAP? I hate throwing parts at a problem.

 

17 hours ago, Ωhm said:

 

You mentioned that you could reach .81vdc. That's less than .83vdc. TPS output voltage should vary between .83vdc (CT) to 4.???vdc (WOT). Our you saying that .81vdc is the highest voltage you can read? Hold off on that MAP sensor till this is sorted out.

The voltage swings up as the butterfly is opened. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
1 hour ago, comanche1989 said:

An update just incase people have a similar problem and are searching the forum. My distributor itself was bad. Now that the distributor is replaced (as well as nearly every sensor and ignition component) the Comanche is running smooth as can be!

 

Do you know what the distributor problem was? Electrical, mechanical, ?? Might help someone else if you know the cause.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As far as I understand, it was a mechanical issue causing an electrical issue. The distributor was worn out, causing oscillations effecting both the Cam position sensor ( I know the Jeep can  run with it unplugged) and the rotor. I believe once the engine reached a certain rpm, it created an almost death wobble effect, where it oscillated at that certain rpm range. Certainly a strange problem. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...