Bmoore2 Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 Make sure you have a fat wallet... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 If you're going to fix something, do it properly. You don't know how much trouble quickly thrown together repairs can cause later on especially if you ever sell it. A cheap fix becomes an expensive problem later on. And don't take it to a shop unless you have to. Just from minor things (serpentine belts, idler pulley, diff fluid, etc) my math tells me I've saved almost $300 in the past two months doing the work myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 If you're going to fix something, do it properly. You don't know how much trouble quickly thrown together repairs can cause later on especially if you ever sell it. A cheap fix becomes an expensive problem later on. And don't take it to a shop unless you have to. Just from minor things (serpentine belts, idler pulley, diff fluid, etc) my math tells me I've saved almost $300 in the past two months doing the work myself. That goes with any car my buddy paid almost 300 for a tow and new battery...and it wasnt even the battery.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 When it comes to tools I'm sure we all have an assortment of metric and SAE wrenches and sockets.Seems the one that gives me the most grief is 18mm whatevers, seems they aren't standard in most sets. I suggest buying a 18mm box/end wrench and a few 18mm deep & std sockets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 When it comes to tools I'm sure we all have an assortment of metric and SAE wrenches and sockets. Seems the one that gives me the most grief is 18mm whatevers, seems they aren't standard in most sets. I suggest buying a 18mm box/end wrench and a few 18mm deep & std sockets. I would have killed for a 18mm 6pt 1/2" drive socket to get an oddball lug nut off today, glad my friend let me use his shop today to get it off, thank you George. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989 Eliminator Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 The horn button on eliminator steering wheels has allen whench bolts on it. don't TRY TO TURN THEM! they are very soft and will just distort and strip. not that i tried it or anything... :doh: :dunce: :fool: but the horn button just pulls off with allitle delicate pressure ;) Yeah I didnt do this either......... if the horn button starts to get loose and rattle, it just pulls off and then you tighten the three screws behind it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989 Eliminator Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 My Tips: *put on mud flaps for your front tires! looks dumb but it saves the bottom of your side panels *Make a cup holder out of thick foam *upgrade your grounds! *If your truck isnt starting... replace the CPS with only a MOPAR not an auto store special *Put dielectric grease on all your electrical connections *Upgrade your brakes with a later year XJ brake booster *undercoat!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddmodman Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 Oxgard or similar is far better for electrical connections than dielectric grease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989 Eliminator Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 Do the dual diaphram brake booster and MC upgrade!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robbie95 Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 Make sure you have a fat wallet... best tip I have seen... lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babyblack86 Posted September 7, 2013 Share Posted September 7, 2013 Most definitely invest 50 cents in a stick on blind spot mirror for the drivers side. Comanches are notorious for that blind spot between the side and back windows. Can't tell you how many close calls we have had with someone driving to our left hiding just behind the window frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babyblack86 Posted September 7, 2013 Share Posted September 7, 2013 Ever have a saggy headliner? The cause is the sun/heat. If you can park your MJ with a good headliner in the shade or indoors, the glue will not de-laminate. For the 99% that are already hanging, just RIP EM OUT! We don't need no stinking headliners! Removal of the fabric and the foam backer leave you handy storage shelves all the way around the cab. A rattle can full of your favorite mix of toxic colored chemicals makes it pleasing to the eye and saves you a good 150 +/- bucks that can be better spent elsewhere. It also gives us fat @$$ / too tall bastids more headroom. Now if I could only find a cheap way to stretch the cab and move the seat back 4 inches. Has anyone ever extended their cab and installed the big Cherokee doors that come on a 2 door? That's my dream project but would cost more than I ever paid for an MJ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted September 7, 2013 Share Posted September 7, 2013 150 bucks?? I spent like 20 bucks and 2 hours redoing mine :hmm: :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 7, 2013 Author Share Posted September 7, 2013 the headliner is quite important while driving in the sunshine. :yes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted September 7, 2013 Share Posted September 7, 2013 :agree: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metrictonner Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 4.0 Renix distributor has an odd number of drive gear teeth and cannot be replaced in any old postion. I've bought new (remanufactured) distributors that had the pickup replaced and power checked but not the timing. It the rotor doesn't match the position EXACTLY to before you pulled the distributor it is because the drive gear is 180 degrees off. Punch out the mounting pin, rotate the gear 180 and repin (with flares so it won't come out in the engine). You can start the engine with a distributor whose timing is off but it won't rev without puking up motor parts out your tailpipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 Interesting - didn't know that. I assume this applies to Renix only, and not the early HOs? Both distributors use the same drive gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanchepur Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 :thumbsup: Check Yearly the electric connectors in the main electric wires down the cabin because affect the transmission performance. For example if this cables are failure the transmission do not change in the best way, never check this connectors and cables fix the transmission and repeat the problem. Another is possible to fire the vehicle I had this experience when I had my Cherokee never check and my cherokee fire from this cables to the rest of electrical connections. :wrench: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kq.echo.413 Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 Buy a volt ohm teseter(multimeter) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 If you own a Renx Jeep, click on the link in my signature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willys55 Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 ^ what he said......LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big66440 Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 Mopar Manual window regulator part numbers 55235207 (driver side) and 55235206 (passenger), discontinued years ago Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjbret13 Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 If you are having any problems related to the TPS. Try cleaning the c101. Everything on the drivers side of the engine goes through this connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 If you are having any problems related to the TPS. Try cleaning the c101. Everything on the drivers side of the engine goes through this connector. Check out Post #27 in the link below. Eliminate that troublesome C101!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 There's way too much "troublesome" crap on a Renix system. There must have been something lost in the translation between the Renault Electronique and Bendix design engineers. It's a kludge system (an ill-assorted collection of parts assembled to fulfill a particular purpose) that AMC farmed out for bottom $$ in an attempt to survive a few more years. That being said, keep up the good work keeping the Renix machines alive and well Cruiser-man. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now