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  2. Terrible timing has led me to the following questions: I am swapping a 8.8 and dana 30 into my 2wd. Can I put on new axle perches and put the 8.8 in, install the new ax15 and t case and get a drive line to fit. Leave the straight axle in the front until i get the dana 30 rebuilt. Basically swap everything but the front axle and front driveline? Is that ok? Secondly I don't have the transfer case shift linkage or handle yet. Can I install all the above and do the linkage later when I install the front axle? The reason for all this is we are moving to a new house and can't spend money on parts at the moment. I need to get the rear done while I'm here so I have my neighbors help, he has a welder and the know how to move the perches and get them in the right spot. But have to do the swap relatively quick so I don't have to tow my truck to the new place. If there is a write up on moving the perches please post a link. Also the u bolts and plates don't have a stud for my shock mount. Can I weld on a stud to the plate I have? Do I simply take a grinder to the welds to get the old perches off? I'm also considering repositioning the spring perches and waiting until after the move because this is a lot for a new mechanic with very limited time and money.
  3. Making progress. I don't have a big enough socket for the nut on the end of the axle shaft . Upper control arm bolts are really stuck too. Applie some PB blaster. I want to replace all the u joints, ball joints and things while I'm at it but it is not going to be cheap.
  4. I feel like I’m watching paint dry but thanks. At least I’m staying interested. I’m going to get the truck running and moving with the 4.0 liter and slow build the 427 and do it right. Found some weld in motor mounts from TRD (no affiliation with Toyota) and yes much beefier springs up front for sure and probably some frame strengtheners from TNT.
  5. They are usually called exhaust band clamps, Jegs, Summit, carry all sizes and types (slip and butt) in stainless.
  6. CR Laurence still makes the back glass. Heck, they even make the optional sunroofs still. http://crlaurence.com/crlapps/showline/offerpage.aspx?Productid=87862&GroupID=1653&History=30587:21770:1351:1389&ModelID=1653
  7. I’ve been using wd40 degreaser to remove any leftover adhesive that has baked on over the years and it works great. Straight wd40 works well also. As for wrapping, I wouldn’t do it unless I prepped all the panels the right way. There are so many seams where rust can form and if they are not prepped, treated and sealed correctly, I can see the wrap acting as more of a moisture trap. Remember, as has been said before, these trucks rust from the inside out at least with paint you can see what’s happening and where a problem area may be developing. Just my .02
  8. x2 nothing like making angry pixies melt metal to cobble-fab that together.
  9. I run a magnaflow stainless spun cat and magnaflow muffler and am happy with the sound. Not very harsh at all. Also ran a Gibson mwr muffler and liked it also, more so than the magnaflow. To me a straight 6 sounds best on about a 20” glass pack with 2.25 or 2.5 tubing. The flow masters, magnaflows, Gibson’s and the like sound better on that off-beat non balanced V8 sound but a straight 6 has a totally different sound. Very balanced and smooth. I like to pursue the sound of performance straight 6’s instead like European cars. It doesn’t sound “ricer” by any means but a glass pack really adds some depth and brings out that straight 6 sound. Headers, downpipe and even tips all contribute to the sound also.
  10. This is all amazing advice! Fun to hear about everyone's long distance adventures. What's life without a little risk right? I definitely need to drive the truck more and put more work into it before I can be confident in it but I think all the points made here give me a good starting point. Going to compile a list of components to upgrade and a list of things to bring on the road. Will share my progress and itinerary once I plan it out, thank you for the tips everyone!
  11. If you can slip it loose there is some exhaust putty that will seal that up well. I’d throw a clamp on it also as was shown while the putty/epoxy is curing. Either that or get out the old hot metal glue gun a weld it up. Exhaust shop shouldn’t charge more than 20-30 for a simple weld fix like that
  12. It’s a long shot, but does anyone have one they bought and never ended up using or put it in and hated it so they ditched it? Just having a hard time spending the money for new. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. I moved ya over to the Pub as an introduction. when you get the VIN, drop that into the appropriate registry subforum and you'll get a build sheet and birthday for your new baby. nice patina!
  14. Wasn’t registered yet at the time of my comment.
  15. no worries @Pete M can move it for ya, Thats a good looking truck, Welcome
  16. Hoods


    Sorry, I haven’t got all the info yet and not sure if I am posting in the right place
  17. Was looking for a small pickup truck and came across this! Mopar tech I work with did most of the work. Fell in love with it since I first laid eyes on it!
  18. The sacrifices we make to drive these rare birds.
  19. jdog


    go ahead and post it, we love to see them
  20. Sounds like your fuel filter is clogged. When was the last time the fuel filter and the contents of tank have been checked?
  21. Hoods


    Sorry to hear that! I was thinking bout posting the one I just bought but now I don’t want to jinx it! Hope you are ok 👍
  22. Hope you didnt ditch those factory bed rails somewhere. But looks like a good find even at 74K on the odo.
  23. what's nice about that clamp is that it conforms to the pipe
  24. i wonder if a straight piece will work for me because i don't think it will seal it fully
  25. jdog


    Hello Neighbor Build date: 1/13/88 Body:jp62 *W7-Cloth Lo-Back Bckt/Red Accent Seats -H9-DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE ADA-Light Group ADE- ADL-Skid Plate Group AGL- AHY- APA-Monotone Paint BCQ-750 Amp Maintenance Free Battery CAC-Low Back Bucket Seats CGW- CKA-Carpets - Floor and Cargo Area CUF-Full Length Floor Console DGQ-Automatic Transmission DTA-DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE ERB-4.0L I6 MPI Engine GAC-Tinted Glass Windows GFD-Rear Sliding Window GPB-Blind Spot,Pwr,Fold Pursuit Mrrs HAA-Air Conditioning JAY- JGB-Digital Clock JHA-Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers JJA-Cigar Lighter K60-STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING LDA-Underhood Lamp LMA-Halogen Headlamps LPE-Cargo Lamp MBF-Bright Rear Bumper MDA-Front License Plate Bracket MFD-Bright Grille MWF-Adjustable Roof Rail Crossbars NAA-Federal Emissions NFA-20 Gallon Fuel Tank NHB-Auxiliary Transmission Oil Cooler NHM-Speed Control NHQ-Transmission Heater NMB-Standard Duty Engine Cooling PX6-Paint QX6-Paint RAF-AM/FM Cassette Radio SBA-Power Steering SCE- Wrapped Steering Wheel SUA-Tilt Steering Column TBB-Full Size Spare Tire WJM-15X7.0 Chrome Wheels 3LX-DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE
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