Interior Insulation

[dscowell]

What's everyone using for interior insulation whether it's in their MJ or another vehicle?  I've head Dynamat makes good products but then I hear people by cheap stuff from the hardware store and it's just as good and half the price.  I wan't to put it on the floor, above the headliner and where ever else I can put some.

[johnj92131]

Suggest your research this site;

 

https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

 

Lots of good, factual information, without the marketing hype.

 

Here is another very interesting/useful thread:

 

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-engine/576543-ideas-consider-when-soundproofing-your-truck.html

[Minuit]

I did an almost complete coating of real Dynamat on my truck. The only worthwhile thing it did was make raindrops hitting the roof very quiet. Dynamat or anything like it does not block sound, it stops panels from vibrating. There was no noticeable or measurable change in road, engine, or wind noise. 78 dB before, 78 dB after. I would only use Dynamat or equivalent sparingly on panels that easily vibrate, like doors and the roof. 

[johnj92131]

I did an almost complete coating of real Dynamat on my truck. The only worthwhile thing it did was make raindrops hitting the roof very quiet. Dynamat or anything like it does not block sound, it stops panels from vibrating. There was no noticeable or measurable change in road, engine, or wind noise. 78 dB before, 78 dB after. I would only use Dynamat or equivalent sparingly on panels that easily vibrate, like doors and the roof. 

 

Minuit,

 

Thanks for a factually honest and real measured results!!  Most reviews/sound deadening reports lack any quantifiable, repeatable results.

 

Once my TDI diesel conversion is finished, my plan is to attack the noise of the diesel engine.  Unfortunately, that will not be cheap or easy.  Especially with a low end, older vehicle like the Cherokee/Comanche.

[mnkyboy]

I did the Peel and Seal,it's similar to Fatmat but not quite as thick as dynamat,it was about $30 to do my entire floor.

 

I don't have carpet anymore and the engine,trans,t-cases in my MJ are poly mounted so it was very loud and tinny inside,the Peel and Seal made a big difference over having nothing, it only quieted it down a little inside but the tinny sound is completely gone which was the bigger issue.

Driving on the highway or long trips use to drive me nuts and now it is much more tolerable.

[HunterK]

I just covered the whole inside of my Comanche in fatmat raddletrap. Made a HUGE difference over stock so much more quiet and way less heat. 36 square feet is about 90 dollars and it comes with a roller and a razor to cut and install it. 100% worth it.

[Gabbo]

I did Dynamat.  36 square feet did my floor and the back of the cab under the window.

Now I don't have to yell to my passenger at freeway speeds and It holds the heat in better in winter.

I would put it in the top 10 "must haves" for an MJ owner. 

 

I did a lot of online "research" before deciding on Dynamat.  The thing that I noticed in most reviews was that the cheap stuff smells like tar.  I got a pack of Dynamat for about the same price as Fatmat on Ebay so I got the one with the reputation.  I do not regret a thing.

[johnj92131]

I did Dynamat.  36 square feet did my floor and the back of the cab under the window.

Now I don't have to yell to my passenger at freeway speeds and It holds the heat in better in winter.

I would put it in the top 10 "must haves" for an MJ owner. 

 

I did a lot of online "research" before deciding on Dynamat.  The thing that I noticed in most reviews was that the cheap stuff smells like tar.  I got a pack of Dynamat for about the same price as Fatmat on Ebay so I got the one with the reputation.  I do not regret a thing.

 

Gabbo,

 

In your research - did you find any before and after actual sound measurements?

 

Asking because I have found a lot of  "opinions", but not much factual data.  Some of the best documented data I have located was on the diesel truck forums.  But most of it was undocumented opinions.

[Gabbo]

 

I did Dynamat.  36 square feet did my floor and the back of the cab under the window.

Now I don't have to yell to my passenger at freeway speeds and It holds the heat in better in winter.

I would put it in the top 10 "must haves" for an MJ owner. 

 

I did a lot of online "research" before deciding on Dynamat.  The thing that I noticed in most reviews was that the cheap stuff smells like tar.  I got a pack of Dynamat for about the same price as Fatmat on Ebay so I got the one with the reputation.  I do not regret a thing.

 

Gabbo,

 

In your research - did you find any before and after actual sound measurements?

 

Asking because I have found a lot of  "opinions", but not much factual data.  Some of the best documented data I have located was on the diesel truck forums.  But most of it was undocumented opinions.

 

 

I'm afraid I did not.  I came across the same thing you are describing: 'undocumented opinions'.   Most of them were from the rice-burner forums that build stereos on wheels.

I feel like I still need to do my doors though.  I've heard putting some behind the speakers in the doors helps a lot too.

[dscowell]

Thanks for all the input and links guys.

 

What I see to be getting from all the reading is CLD  stops vibrations in the metal but doesn't actually block any sound.  CCF is pretty much just a inbetween lay that doesn't provide much of any sound deadening.  MLV is the heavy stuff that actually deadens sound.    That seems to be the jist of it, correct me if i'm wrong though.  

 

With all that in mind,  I feel like it would be wise to put the CLD on pretty much every surface I can.  One of the websites said only 25% of an area needs to be covered another said 60%.  I'm thinking I should just do the full 100% since I'm not really sure where the 25% most effective area would be and I'd rather not tear everything apart again if I don't have to.  I'm thinking firewall to back sliding window,  roof and possibly doors (may not have money for doors right now).  After the CLD is down then a layer of CCF.  Since it's suggested to not put down MLV on roofs or hoods (since it's heavy) I'm thinking I won't need to put any CCF on the roof of the truck.  All I have read says it doesn't do a whole lot to block sound and I'd rather not spend money and time on something that won't help at all.  After that lay down the MLV from the firewall to back window.  That should pretty much do it right?  Anywhere else you guys suggest I lay some material down?

 

I'm also thinking about going with Second Skin.  http://store.secondskinaudio.com/ Atleast for the MLV and CLD.  Anyone else recommend another company?  I've heard mixed reviews on dynapad so I'm a little weary.  

[Minuit]

You've got the basics right. You won't lose anything by covering everything in CLD/dynamat but it's an area of diminishing returns for sure. 

 

Foam is to stop things from touching eachother. MLV doesn't work very well if it's right up against a vibrating panel. Technically you could put almost any soft foam between the CLD and MLV but the most common recommendation is neoprene foam rubber since it doesn't really absorb water and it's pretty sturdy. I'd definitely suggest MLV on the B-pillar almost up to the roof to block as much wind noise as possible from the cab vents. Those have always been a problem for me on my trucks.

 

Here's 40 sqft of MLV on Amazon with free prime shipping. Second Skin has a pretty good reputation from what I've seen but they're expensive. I would definitely do the firewall and floor first so you only need to rip out the whole interior once. You can always come back and do the other stuff later. The more complete your coverage of MLV is the better.

[cody4359]

I advise anyone to stay away from the asphalt based products like fatmat. I did the floor, rear of cab and roof in my mj. Possibly helped a Tiny bit, but after the heat has gotten to it I have runs all over from the asphalt melting. I'm in the process of pulling all of that crap out and getting it immaculate so I can spray in lizzard skin sound deadener and the lizzard skin ceramic in hopes of cutting down on the heat from the tranny. I don't know if the dynamat being butyl will remove easier, but I fully regret the fatmat move and hope that the lizzard skin proves to be better

 

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[johnj92131]

Thanks for all the input and links guys.

 

What I see to be getting from all the reading is CLD  stops vibrations in the metal but doesn't actually block any sound.  CCF is pretty much just a inbetween lay that doesn't provide much of any sound deadening.  MLV is the heavy stuff that actually deadens sound.    That seems to be the jist of it, correct me if i'm wrong though.  

 

With all that in mind,  I feel like it would be wise to put the CLD on pretty much every surface I can.  One of the websites said only 25% of an area needs to be covered another said 60%.  I'm thinking I should just do the full 100% since I'm not really sure where the 25% most effective area would be and I'd rather not tear everything apart again if I don't have to.  I'm thinking firewall to back sliding window,  roof and possibly doors (may not have money for doors right now).  After the CLD is down then a layer of CCF.  Since it's suggested to not put down MLV on roofs or hoods (since it's heavy) I'm thinking I won't need to put any CCF on the roof of the truck.  All I have read says it doesn't do a whole lot to block sound and I'd rather not spend money and time on something that won't help at all.  After that lay down the MLV from the firewall to back window.  That should pretty much do it right?  Anywhere else you guys suggest I lay some material down?

 

I'm also thinking about going with Second Skin.  http://store.secondskinaudio.com/ Atleast for the MLV and CLD.  Anyone else recommend another company?  I've heard mixed reviews on dynapad so I'm a little weary.  

 

Last evening I found this massive 67 page thread on CLD tiles. Lots of actual good testing data in this thread.

 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/member-reviews-product-comparisons/146403-sound-deadening-cld-testing-69.html

 

The last post has a findings summary.  My key take away was that it gets VERY expensive for not much gain to go from 25% to 100% coverage with CLD tiles. 

[Minuit]

Start on about page 8 or so if you want to read through the whole thing.

 

One thing I've seen so far (I'm on pg. 18 right now) is that the measurements suggest that Peel 'n Seal and I would assume by extension the other duct insulation type products are next to useless as a CLD. You can also see the owner of Sound Deadener Showdown being an @$$ to the guy conducting the tests. Good stuff John, thanks for posting :thumbsup:

 

Also, I don't think it's highlighted in the results post at the end but his testing strongly suggests that FatMat is literally just Peel 'n' Seal in a different box.

[dscowell]

You would think this stuff would be straight forward but I guess not.  After I get everything done, I may do a short write up and try to sift through all the info so people like me who know nothing about this stuff can understand it a little easier.  

[cody4359]

I browsed that info, I wish they would have done lizzard skin to. I may return what I bought and try something specific for heat, from DEI

 

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