kill_burst Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 In a week I will be taking off a few days of work to start a 4x4 swamp on my 90 LWB. I am installing a 3.5 inch RE lift in the front and hell creek leaf springs in the rear. Will be running 32 inch tires. This is my first build so I was just wondering if there is any last minute suggestions, tips, or things that I should do while everything is tore apart before I put everything back together. Comanche Club has been very helpful so far and has great information regarding this swap. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 Replace anything that's worn out or even slightly suspect in the front axle/suspension/steering before or while installing it. My 4wd swap was started 3 owners back, so it was literally thrown together with thrashed parts, which wound up costing me a ton of time, money, and pain in the end. I did the V8 ZJ tie rod, flipped the tie rod end, and the newer style XJ drag link to upgrade the earlier junk (which was also completely worn out). I also did the ball joints and unit bearings. My brakes were okay, other than the hoses were rotten and shorter than ideal. I bought YJ hoses for the front and a Dakota hose for the rear. The only worn out parts I ultimately left were the upper control arm bushings as I wanted to replace the UCAs completely (this is actually still on the to-do list and I might do it shortly since I'm waiting for clutch parts, another thing one of the POs did improperly). I would have saved a lot of money and headache had I realized everything was thrashed, as I would have either done a large Rockauto order for every wear part, or just bought a low mile JK axle or newer XJ axle from the wrecker along with some nicer aftermarket parts. Actually I really regret not going the JK axle route, but that's a different topic entirely. Also if you're anywhere that's rusty, start putting some penetrating oil on the bolts and nuts now. I'd also suggest having all new hardware from the control arms, track bar, leaf springs, and shocks on hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kill_burst Posted April 28, 2017 Author Share Posted April 28, 2017 Great, I will definitely look at those things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 I think the number one thing to know is that it will take more than a few days. If there is anything I've learned on my build is that there is always something that makes it take longer. Like DirtyComanche said, replace what needs it as you find it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottJeep Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 Just finished up my 2WD to 4WD conversion. Plan, Plan, Plan. My truck is an 89', 4.0L, Auto., 3.5" Lift Many parts were purchased well in advance. MANY new parts. IMHO too much work to have a used part fail and make the project back-slide so I completely agree with the positions stated above. My swap was made difficult by several decisions on my part. These hick-ups/over-sights/screw-ups/personal preferences were. All added some time of costs. Parts or Time or Just Swearing, Lots of Swearing. (1) Picked the 242J wanted full-time 4WD (1b) The 242J is longer than the 231 driveshaft had to be SHORTENED. Extra co$t. (2) Decided to fully re-build the D30 front AND upgrade to WJ knuckles/brakes. ( 4 piston Akebono calipers and big rotors ). Extra Part$. (3) Forgot to research the speedo cable issue. Factory 2WD cable does not have the needed length. Duh (Crown 53005084 ) (4) Chose to used non-factory shifter linkage for transfer case ( Boostwerks was my choice). Kept me from drilling up my floorboard. (5) Lots of misinformation (IMO) regarding shifters and gates 231 vs 242. And even though my the swap parts I bought were complete the transfer case shifter/bezel was for a 97+. (6) Column shifted automatics have a different shifter arm than console shifted automatics Made worse when it was discovered the shifter arm rod end had been snapped off by the PO and NOT knowing/noticing this difference before welding on the wrong arm sucks, big time. (7) After the above, was more committed to sticking with column shifted auto. Obtaining the mini console only for the transfer-case shifter, in factory grey, well it was expen$ive. And the failure of altering the carpet opening correctly was also all on me. Hopefully, you can avoid many of these. And I am a bit OCD. Not as bad as others but more-so than many. In the end happy with the conversion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kill_burst Posted May 1, 2017 Author Share Posted May 1, 2017 ^^ fantastic thank you. I have also purchased the boostwerks shift linkage and many of the parts to do the 3.5 inch lift. I will be going with the 231 and a pre 96 AW4. I did not think about the speedo cable, thanks for that. I got very lucky and got a new bench seat (looked brand new) and transfer case mini console for 200$. How did the column shifter arm differ from 2wd and 4wd? was there heavy mods for that? thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottJeep Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 The column shifter lever at the transmission is almost perfectly straight where the floor console shifter lever is bent/curved. It was very obvious and I felt sick to my stomach when I realized by error. 8) Kick down cable length is different RENIX -> HO. Shifting did not feel "correct". Never felt the "kick down" to passing gear. Found this thread while researching....http://comancheclub.com/topic/44473-kickdown-cable-adjustment-question/?hl=cable+length&do=findComment&comment=453374 MY OCDness of not throwing anything old away until all the bugs have been worked out saved me. Pulled the old cable off and installed. MUCH better shifting. The installation is not overly difficult but would have been a breeze prior to the transmission installation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kill_burst Posted May 1, 2017 Author Share Posted May 1, 2017 Awesome, that will be extremely helpful. This is the first I have heard of this issue. Thanks a bunch. I am sure you have saved me a ton of headaches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Janitor Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 8) Kick down cable length is different RENIX -> HO. Shifting did not feel "correct". Never felt the "kick down" to passing gear. I just swapped a 97 XJ AW4 into my MJ that had a trashed AW4 (1989). Have not tested it yet as I'm still putting the motor back together. Are you saying that the throttle valve cable has to be swapped from tranny-to-tranny? If the only difference is the cable length does it matter? Both my MJ and the donor AW4 XJ are 4x4. Knew about the difference in the shift levers no issue there and I swapped the solenoid wiring harness from the 89 to the 97 AW4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottJeep Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 Found this thread while researching....http://comancheclub....gth#entry453374. My cables were different by several inches. My personal "research" indicates it made a difference. Had no passing gear. TONS of good information in this thread as well http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1053970 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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