Questions; Floor Pans

[mrmel2you]

Needing to put in new floor pans in The Beast.  My questions, Has anyone used Sherman floor pans?  I can get the full pans through Rock Auto for $96.79 ea.. What would you recommend doing for bracing/seat mount studs?  Not too sure if I can salvage any of the factory bracing, looks pretty rotted to me.  Driver's floor pan is the worst, rusted under the accelerator pedal and back about a foot, from the tunnel hump towards the rocker panel about 6-8 inches (inboard front seat stud is non-existent, nothing there).  Passenger side has a lot of surface rust and just a few small rusted through holes, figured if I have to replace one pan---may as well replace both of them while I'm at it.  I'm open to all kinds of ideas.  This will be a first for me, but I have access to a small wire feed welder, air compressor/die-grinder/drills/saws/hammers/rivet gun etc..  Don't have a garage or carport, so it will be done in our gravel driveway (same thing when it comes time for the body work and paint)----but I can "Get-'er-Done"  LOL :)

 

[mikekaz1]

https://www.amazon.com/1984-96-Cherokee-Wagoneer-Comanche-Front/dp/B004GAX2G4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1477081036&sr=8-1&keywords=comanche+floor+pan

[mikekaz1]

ive found the replacement of the inner brace not 100% necessary for reassembly, but if wanted the frame rails are ~6" wide, flange to flange, you could get some 1/8"x6"  flat stock  and weld it flush against the floor pan/ frame flange. I see this as easier and stronger then the awkwardly raised 18ga floor brace originally there.   other then that, its pretty straight forward, cut bad out, weld new in, try not to overlap too much, and use some seam sealant after over all the welds helps keep further rust away too.