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WJ Knuckle/Brake Upgrade (2WD)


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OK this won't be popular but I'm not one that usually does what everyone else does, so......

 

Have the dual diaphragm brake booster installed and am in the process of a rear end rebuild.... BUT I really want to upgrade the front brakes as well.   

 

Have already obtained, from the local Pull-A-Part, complete sealed bearing spindles, rotors and calipers from a 2000 XJ. 

 

My plan was to replace the ball joints during the upgrade but research gives different ball joint numbers between my 2WD 89' MJ and

the 2WD 00' XJ everything came from.

 

A definite possible bump in the road. 

 

My truck is a 2WD lifted and I'm not interested in 4WD.  

 

Have the 75' CJ5 ( D30, D44, 3 spd, 360 V8) in the garage for those purposes. 

 

Aware that folks are not fans of the newer sealed bearing front but I feel based on my previous experience with the brake design is that

they are a worthy upgrade. One small, but wanted personal, solution this also provides the room to put the center caps on my MOAB wheels without using any wheel spacers. 

 

Wanted to see if anyone maybe had any experience before I go to NAPA and waste a lunch hour measuring balls joints. 

 

Thanks in advance. 

 

 

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The 2000 XJ doesn't have spindles. It has hub/bearing units.

 

Did you get the steering knuckles from the 2000? If not, the other parts aren't going to help you because the calipers won't be centered on the discs.

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At some point, the XJ's went to a UB and stub shaft vs the spindle. Basically, If you have the late model 1-piece knuckles, use 2000+ UB, rotors, calipers, etc and an outer stub shaft in side the UB so it doesn't fall apart. 

 

Pretty sure the ball joints are the same. 

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Yeah... pretty sure I got it ALL... for less than $30.00.

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And just so others can laugh.... it's not fun to laugh at yourself, all the time.  

 

Failed to take a pickle fork with me so I got to back the next day.  Hoping the entire time someone did not step in and take it all nice and easy. 

AND then to make it even better....failed to THINK about how much they weighed. Took straps with me so I could "just carry them" back. 

Yeah, maybe that is why she gave me a deal. Cause my GUN SHOW was for real by the time I got all the way back to the counter. 

 

And yes I will have the rotors checked or just replace. Have the hook up at the local machine shop. Already have the pads ordered. 

 

Fun times ahead. 

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Honestly, do yourself a favor, buy new UB's, stub shafts, pads and rotors. Keep those as spares. If it is cheaper or easier, you can use 4WD outer stubs as those seem to be more common/available. 

 

Heck, if you wanted EVEN BETTER brakes, you could go the WJ route. 2WD would not require welding the spacers to the knuckle for steering alignment. 

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WJ route is tempting...Oh those calipers!  

 

But the steering "upgrades" and customizing rotors to keep the 5x4.5 bolt pattern sort of kills the excitement. 

 

Don't want to have to create a Fund Me page.  Mostly fund my Jeep fun with junkyard part sells. 

 

Now I could force myself to sell off all my rare MJ parts ...then it wouldn't be a problem but when you DD one that is VERY hard to consider. 

 

Thanks for keeping the scary wheels in my head turning. Luckily, or unluckily, I have 4 Pull-A-Part type lots within 30 minutes of my house. 

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Another interested 2WD owner here. Keep us updated.

 

You're lucky. I drive an hour each way to get to my favorite junkyard. The JY in town wanted $500+exchange for an 8.25 and forever lost my business after that. Shame, because he had 3 MJs last time I was there.

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Well..... hats off to Crash.  

 

Have gotten absolutely nothing done at work this morning.  

 

Now planning to find my receipt and return by 2000 XJ knuckle assemblies this weekend. Obtain my credit and then yank off a full set of WJ knuckles complete just like I did before.  

 

Don't like the idea of farting around with spacers and different UB and all so to save money and time I'll slap on a set of Spidertrax 5x5 --> 5x4.5 and call it done. 

 

Only change this way will be the WJ ball joint at the bottom. 

 

Since my MOABs are 16" should have no major issues there. 

 

Only not happy part is slapping 2" spacers on the back to make things look sorta normal. 

 

Knee deep in the rear end right now.  I'll go ahead and add disappointment here as after my inner seal bearing issues I did not go with the planned 8.25 ( did buy the perches ) 

so sorry Ryan ( but THANK YOU for your input and knowledge ).   After looking at everything and being paranoid I made an offer on another MJ rear end I knew about ( the place always

ask sky high prices ) and THEY TOOK IT!  Sweet... so I am jumping to 4.11 rear gears.  YES, it was out of a low mileage 4 cylinder and the insides look MINT! 

 

So anyway... hopefully it won't be so damn hot this weekend. I am tired of sweating to death at my local  "self service auto part recycling establishment".

 

Stay tuned. 

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Since I work at a parts store, one thing I need to do, since I thought about it anyways. From what it looks like, the hub mating surface height of the Renix-era UB and the WJ look VERY close. If they are the same or VERY close, then you wouldn't have to use wheel adapters, unless you planning on that anyways. 

 

 

On another note, blackmagicbrakes.com sells dual drilled centric rotors for XJ and WJ lug patterns. 

Not sure what the Spidertrax spacers/adapters cost. But synergy makes nice ones, and poly performance is a vendor on pirate, so some kind of discount can be had. You do not need to go 2" spacers, unless you want to. I think the Synergy spacer/adapters, at least most are 1.5" 

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OK.... my researching has continued and I love the idea of the BIG brakes.  

 

Crappy braking ( alot due to the leaking rear seal ) is why NOBODY else has been any slight consideration of driving this one. 

 

Need to actually figure out the UB issue...

 

There are rotor options... one being...http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10474.html

Not too bad of a price for slotted and drilled. 

 

Honestly, the wheel adapters are looking like the easiest way to get the install done. 

 

Often use the Pull-A-Part as a learning experience.  Taking things apart just to be able to do it without messing up my stuff. 

Yes, my buddy at work says I am a jerk as well if I break stuff and then walk away.... Oh well. It's their business model not mine. 

 

In this case I want to see if the stock steering TRE actually will attach safely to the WJ knuckle.

 

Everything on-line is 4WD and 1 Ton mostly which is fine but that is just another expense AND at this point is just not necessary. 

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Oh... and Frank I'll be in touch if PAP won't take the XJ stuff back. 

 

Unfortunately, I got a couple of my part-runs cornfused... the XJ set was $100. So I got a bit more invested that I thought.   

 

Pretty sure now I was confusing my ZJ caliper cost. 

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Well that is good to know.  Thanks Crash.

 

Hopefully, my smallish lift will let me pull it off without additional "stuff"... for now.  

 

The current "choice" is the DL and TR from JKS.  

This would add ~$400 between the DOM tubing itself and then the four ends so I'd really like to be able to add later right now. 

 

And the last parts for the rear end arrived today....new parking brake cables and brake shoes... so that is the other sub project

within this project. 

 

To Be Continued.........

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Took all the XJ stuff back today... spent the late morning/early afternoon learning WJ dis-assembly.  

 

Pull-A-Part Self Education... priceless. 

 

Currently sitting awaiting cleaning:  Two knuckles, Two Akebono calipers with mounting brackets, Two unit bearings 

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AND 

 

Two WJ Lower Control Arms 

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Lots of fun removing all this stuff.  

 

And always enjoyable after a thunderstorm ...90 degrees 90% humidity. 

 

Time to decide on which rotors and replacing the calipers. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

OK... well this should really be renamed WJ Knuckle/Brake Upgrade (2WD) so any moderator that wants to enact their abilities should go for it. 

 

Have not forgotten this one just building parts.  

 

That and family responsibilities always eat into the Jeep funds. 

 

Anywho... 

 

Picked up another set of Akebono calipers and cleaned up the knuckles for epoxy coating and well yeah I painted the calipers red. 

Found the Mustang Gun Metal Grey but I am too damn cheap to send $70 on caliper paint.  Don't hate the painter just the color, if you wish. 

 

Pictures always make the delay more justifiable. 

 

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Current acquired new parts include:

 

Wagner Pads (they were on sale! at RockAuto )

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Raybestos Rotors ( yeah.... not happy about that last text but it is what it is anymore....welcome to the global market place)

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And I am taking a new path with the ball joints... 

Going to run Mevotech.  

Here are the WJ/XJ Uppers

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Was also already planning on installing the WJ lowers I picked up

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So remaining new parts to obtain are:

Upper Control Arms and new axle side bushing 

Lower Ball Joints

Tie Rod & Drag Link  AND  the associated End Links 

 

Plan to give Iron Rock Off-Road a call about what they can offer. 

 

Should be a huge difference up front. Luckily my power steering up is new. 

 

More to come....

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  • 5 months later...

It will be interesting if the JKS  spacers are not needed. I don't see that happening from my measurements. Or then if they are not needed at all. From my understanding, they space the outer shaft to align the u-joint with the axis of the ball joints. Some say it is not needed if you use the WJ hubs. I don't think so. The outer shaft mounts the same to the  XJs or WJs. The depth or protrusion on the bearing surface from the knuckle surface is the same. I am gather parts for this swap on a '98 XJ. I do get the Mevotech lower WJ ball joints. They are made in China. They do look very good as pictured. I just replaced my ball joints with Alloy USA set. They XJ lowers don't fit firm in the WJ knuckles. I also went with a pair of 00'-'01 XJ Timken Hubs. They are roughly .230 less width than the WJ hubs. The bearing looks to be the same size. I am also planning to use '07-'08 Dodge Nitro Rotors. I bough some Centric (mid grade). They look good. I did do some stack ups and I might need to put in a 1/16th spacer to center the calipers with this setup. I went with NAPA Eclipse Akebono type and brackets. I just need to have the spacers welded on.

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