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Stalled and will not fire back up


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So a Week ago I was driving home and my 87 manche just dies at a stop light. It was not running rough and evenything seemed to be in working order other then the idle to be a little off. When it died the Vacuum line to the throttle body was melted which happens from time to time on my rig. I replaced that as I have before but to no avail. This has always been a reason for it to not start up but now that it is fixed it will not fire it will crank and act like it wants to start but won't turn over.

 

I've done the c101 removal and ground refresh already, I checked the relay for the fuel pump and all seems to be fine(replaced with a good spare i had). I have noticed the humming from the fuel pump when I turn the key on is reduced as it was a good humming before. I don't have a tester so I unhooked the fuel filter (Replaced as well), and when I turn the key on fuel does come out. It isn't forcefully as I would expect but I'm not sure what I should expect. Does this sound like a Fuel Pump issue as that is where I'm at on diagonsising. Hoping someone had a problem like this as well that could chime in over point me in a direction that I may not be thinking of.

 

Also after turning the engine over there is now a quick load buzz after I turn the key off, I'm suspecting this is the alternator or Starter from trying to fire it up with no luck.

 

 

87 manche, 4.0, aw4.

Edited by jgrabner
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It might be advisable to check the fuel pump ballast resistor on the driver side of the engine bay near the fender.

To eliminate it as a possible source of your issue simply unhook the two wires and connect them together.

I only mention this because you said the sound from the fuel pump sounds different and that resistor was added to lower the sound.

 

The buzz you are hearing may simply be the buzzer near the fuse panel under the dash, does it sound like its coming from near your feet?

 

If you have access to a fuel pressure gauge you can check the pressure at the rail via the schrader valve

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If you cranking the engine over but nothing else happens, it is most likely your CPS (Crank Position Sensor). When these go bad the sensor never picks up the teeth on the flywheel and therefore never gives the correct time to send a spark signal.

 

Check the CPS wire from the top by the firewall (two pin connector) all the way to the actual sensor on top of the transmission. If the wire is burnt then there is your issue. You can see all from the engine compartment; just have to look down and back to see the sensor. Cruiser 54 also has step by step instructions of how to test if the sensor is bad. I have a few links in my signature that might help too.

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It might be advisable to check the fuel pump ballast resistor on the driver side of the engine bay near the fender.

To eliminate it as a possible source of your issue simply unhook the two wires and connect them together.

I only mention this because you said the sound from the fuel pump sounds different and that resistor was added to lower the sound.

 

The buzz you are hearing may simply be the buzzer near the fuse panel under the dash, does it sound like its coming from near your feet?

 

If you have access to a fuel pressure gauge you can check the pressure at the rail via the schrader valve

 

 

 

If you cranking the engine over but nothing else happens, it is most likely your CPS (Crank Position Sensor). When these go bad the sensor never picks up the teeth on the flywheel and therefore never gives the correct time to send a spark signal.

 

Check the CPS wire from the top by the firewall (two pin connector) all the way to the actual sensor on top of the transmission. If the wire is burnt then there is your issue. You can see all from the engine compartment; just have to look down and back to see the sensor. Cruiser 54 also has step by step instructions of how to test if the sensor is bad. I have a few links in my signature that might help too.

 

I do not have pump ballast on the Drivers Side, would this be somewhere else?

Also I'm not getting any pressure to the Rail, I'm thinking I'm going to replace the Fuel Pressure Regulator at this point. Pump is good I replaced, CPS replaced and is good, and All Relays are good. I've already looked at all my connections but will be going over each wire tonight after I replace the FPR. If I put Ether in it will fire up but instantly die so I know if has to be something in the fuel at this point.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Problem Solved It was the Pump originally and I did not connect the Pump Connect well enough, I'm a Dumbass. After I got it going  with a new pump and a new regulator I below the oring out of the first injector and she is running smoother then before once it was all put back together. Thanks for all the advice.

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