Anteru Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 So I just purchased an 88 Comanche Pioneer. Driving it home, I noticed some electrical gremlins off the bat. - when I hit the brakes, you can hear the audible CLICK of the brake switch engage, then the stereo shuts off and the panel lights come on. release the brake the stereo comes back - turn on the headlights and the radio goes out, comes back after the switch is engaged. - turn signal on the front passenger is super weak-sauce, hardly any brightness there at all. same for the passenger Rear - fuel gauge does not work, stuck at 1/4. when i took the panel off to clean the plexi glass screen, i noticed the needle does not bounce back when i attempt to move it (not sure if its supposed to. the speedo does return to 0 if i nudge it) I have since pulled the stereo out due to my suspicions of it being wired incorrectly, it had a TON of twist caps on it and the wiring harness was cut out (guess prev owner didnt find an adapter :P) After researching, I have noticed there is a lot of talk about the grounds being bad. which one should i attempt to replace first? i have been told bridging the existing ground under the instrument cluster to a stud on the firewall will help. any thoughts? should there be something else i am checking? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 Lots of thoughts on that. Click on my link below and do Tips 1 through 5 first. No shortcuts. Clean and shiny like a baby's hiney on all existing ground spots. 18 is for the instrument panel ground upgrade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anteru Posted June 1, 2015 Author Share Posted June 1, 2015 Lots of thoughts on that. Click on my link below and do Tips 1 through 5 first. No shortcuts. Clean and shiny like a baby's hiney on all existing ground spots. 18 is for the instrument panel ground upgrade. been following that actually :) doing the c101 connector now. I replaced the ground strap from the firewall to the engine that post it was on was a pain in the @$$ to get to. I connected the engine end to a post on the firewall. will that work? also the negative lead from the battery to the block had a hole in it, after stripping it back i noticed a ton of oil inside. Probably a large chunk of my problem right there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anteru Posted June 1, 2015 Author Share Posted June 1, 2015 Lots of thoughts on that. Click on my link below and do Tips 1 through 5 first. No shortcuts. Clean and shiny like a baby's hiney on all existing ground spots. 18 is for the instrument panel ground upgrade. also, a dremmel with an abrasive pad saves loads of time on the grounds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 Lots of thoughts on that. Click on my link below and do Tips 1 through 5 first. No shortcuts. Clean and shiny like a baby's hiney on all existing ground spots. 18 is for the instrument panel ground upgrade. been following that actually :) doing the c101 connector now. I replaced the ground strap from the firewall to the engine that post it was on was a pain in the @$$ to get to. I connected the engine end to a post on the firewall. will that work? also the negative lead from the battery to the block had a hole in it, after stripping it back i noticed a ton of oil inside. Probably a large chunk of my problem right there. If you read Tip 1, I think I mention ADDING a ground from the firewall to the intake manifold and cleaning the firewall connection. That braided strap on the back of the head is a bear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anteru Posted June 1, 2015 Author Share Posted June 1, 2015 Lots of thoughts on that. Click on my link below and do Tips 1 through 5 first. No shortcuts. Clean and shiny like a baby's hiney on all existing ground spots. 18 is for the instrument panel ground upgrade. been following that actually :) doing the c101 connector now. I replaced the ground strap from the firewall to the engine that post it was on was a pain in the @$$ to get to. I connected the engine end to a post on the firewall. will that work? also the negative lead from the battery to the block had a hole in it, after stripping it back i noticed a ton of oil inside. Probably a large chunk of my problem right there. If you read Tip 1, I think I mention ADDING a ground from the firewall to the intake manifold and cleaning the firewall connection. That braided strap on the back of the head is a bear. yeah, i am going to have to buy a new one though, second i pulled the strap off, it split in half. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 Just run a regular cable, about 4 gauge, from the firewall to the intake manifold where the fuel rail bolts on to it. Isn't there a part number for it in Tip 1? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anteru Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 well, did steps 1-5, added a ground in the instrument panel, and replaced the sockets for the turn signals. engine is running a bit better, but i now have a new issue with the signal lights. turn headlights on, no running lights in the turn signal bulbs driver's side signal, functions normally, marker light stays off. passenger's side signal flashes both marker bulbs and faintly flickers the signal light on the driver's side i made sure to clean the connector for the light system. (boy that was a pain to separate) should i now be looking at the rear end? they function normally when i test the turn signal lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 You did the lighting connector in front of the air cleaner? Image Not FoundImage Not Found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anteru Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 Yep, hit it with electronics cleaner and scrubbed with a brush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Wiring gremlins are a common problem. Another big problem child seems to be the fuse block itself. There are a few threads on restoring it, or doing swaps to a newer model block and wiring that would be worth doing. That is my upcoming project now that I am done moving, restoring the block and going over my dash wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Siopposition Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 Cruiser, I can't see the link I've seen you mention in a few places. Would you send it to me please for your tips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 Cruiser, I can't see the link I've seen you mention in a few places. Would you send it to me please for your tips. Are you on the app? http://comancheclub....ers-renix-tips/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anteru Posted June 8, 2015 Author Share Posted June 8, 2015 after talking with my brother who is a mechanic, he suggested having the relay tested. so i guess that is my next step. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anteru Posted June 11, 2015 Author Share Posted June 11, 2015 So i discovered the parking lamp fuse was blown, replaced that and parking lamps work correctly. Blinker issue is still a problem and now the solid right hand light comes back on on the dash when the lights are on. I isolated the front and the rear by unplugging the connector to the lights and testing the turn signals. still the same. driver's side is normal, left side flashes both sides. going to replace the turn signal switch when i get paid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anteru Posted June 13, 2015 Author Share Posted June 13, 2015 finally figured it out! it was a bad turn signal wire grounding out on one of the grounding wires on the drivers side. Now onto the exhaust rattle! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted June 13, 2015 Share Posted June 13, 2015 Yay! Front or rear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anteru Posted June 13, 2015 Author Share Posted June 13, 2015 It was the front passenger side wire. i pulled all the wires out of the plastic sleeve and inspected each one. any recommendations on the rattling exhaust? it is rattling on the cross member at low rpm. I have heard if you intend on replacing the exhaust soon, to just cut a heat-resistant rubber hose in half and slip it underneath. The exhaust on this best is about shot. so i am probably going to replace it when i add my 3 inch lift later on next year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted June 14, 2015 Share Posted June 14, 2015 It was the front passenger side wire. i pulled all the wires out of the plastic sleeve and inspected each one. any recommendations on the rattling exhaust? it is rattling on the cross member at low rpm. I have heard if you intend on replacing the exhaust soon, to just cut a heat-resistant rubber hose in half and slip it underneath. The exhaust on this best is about shot. so i am probably going to replace it when i add my 3 inch lift later on next year. Wait til you do the exhaust. How's that trans mount? Image Not Found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anteru Posted June 15, 2015 Author Share Posted June 15, 2015 It was the front passenger side wire. i pulled all the wires out of the plastic sleeve and inspected each one. any recommendations on the rattling exhaust? it is rattling on the cross member at low rpm. I have heard if you intend on replacing the exhaust soon, to just cut a heat-resistant rubber hose in half and slip it underneath. The exhaust on this best is about shot. so i am probably going to replace it when i add my 3 inch lift later on next year. Wait til you do the exhaust. How's that trans mount? Image Not Found I will have to check tomorrow, all washed up and done with working on it today. ended up working on my driver's side window regulator for the better part of the night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anteru Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 well after checking underneath, i noticed the transmission mount seems to be the problem, so i will be doing both. I tried taking pictures but they didn't turn out :(. the replacement seems pretty easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anteru Posted July 5, 2015 Author Share Posted July 5, 2015 transmission mount replaced, no more rattle! it was a delicate dance with a series of bottle jacks and jack stands to keep the transmission from drooping. now the fun with my jeep stalling when i hit the gas. TPS sensor? also i discovered that the fuel gauge is in fact the problem, not the fuel pump. any recommendations on repairing it? gonna try taking it apart tomorrow and see if anythings corroded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted July 5, 2015 Share Posted July 5, 2015 transmission mount replaced, no more rattle! it was a delicate dance with a series of bottle jacks and jack stands to keep the transmission from drooping. now the fun with my jeep stalling when i hit the gas. TPS sensor? also i discovered that the fuel gauge is in fact the problem, not the fuel pump. any recommendations on repairing it? gonna try taking it apart tomorrow and see if anythings corroded. http://comancheclub.com/topic/33662-refurbishing-the-fuel-sender/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anteru Posted July 5, 2015 Author Share Posted July 5, 2015 transmission mount replaced, no more rattle! it was a delicate dance with a series of bottle jacks and jack stands to keep the transmission from drooping. now the fun with my jeep stalling when i hit the gas. TPS sensor? also i discovered that the fuel gauge is in fact the problem, not the fuel pump. any recommendations on repairing it? gonna try taking it apart tomorrow and see if anythings corroded. http://comancheclub.com/topic/33662-refurbishing-the-fuel-sender/ I removed the cable from the assembly off the tank and the needle on the gauge didnt drop. I still intend on replacing the sending unit eventually, but i noticed the actual gauge is a bit wonky on in the instrument panel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anteru Posted July 9, 2015 Author Share Posted July 9, 2015 transmission mount replaced, no more rattle! it was a delicate dance with a series of bottle jacks and jack stands to keep the transmission from drooping. now the fun with my jeep stalling when i hit the gas. TPS sensor? also i discovered that the fuel gauge is in fact the problem, not the fuel pump. any recommendations on repairing it? gonna try taking it apart tomorrow and see if anythings corroded. http://comancheclub.com/topic/33662-refurbishing-the-fuel-sender/ I removed the cable from the assembly off the tank and the needle on the gauge didnt drop. I still intend on replacing the sending unit eventually, but i noticed the actual gauge is a bit wonky on in the instrument panel. sure enough it was the gauge itself, the needle just fell off, i can see that the little spindle snapped. oh well, time for a new gauge cluster! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now