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CAD axles can be prone to not engaging when you need it and you end up with 2wd. I'd swap in the non-CAD axle if the gears are the same. If not you can swap the single piece axle shaft in to the CAD axle and wa-la no more disconnect. Of course you have to do more then just the axle shaft but not a lot more.

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The 92 probably has a 242 case,likely also has ABS so the axle in it has bigger u joints then your CAD axle so you would be getting a shaft upgrade at the same time as ditching the CAD.

IIRC after 90 or 91, all were non-CAD D30. Renix-era XJ with 242 were non-CAD as well. But yes, if it has ABS then larger joints in stock shafts. 

 

As far as CAD not working, the only time I ever had an issue was when my vac hose connector came off. If I had not picked up a late model non-cad axle I would have done a "posi-lok" type cable setup to make sure that the axle engaged properly. 

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Had a brain fart,it could have either case in 92 with the CAD.

 

All 228/229 and 242s are non CAD 84 and up.

 

92 up are non CAD so if it has a 231 it will still have the smaller 260x joints unless it has ABS then it would have 297X joints,around 95 they all got the 297X joints.

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The XJ has the 231tc and 3.07s. I plan on pulling the peugot/231 out of the MJ and replacing with the XJs aw4/231 into the MJ. The gearing will eventually have to be deepened to 4.10-4.56 to accommodate 33"s. Just wondering if it made sense to prep the '92 D30 non disconnect over the stock one. Looks like it's a bit of an upgrade. Haven't tried to find axles with the deeper gears yet, so don't know if I'll be keeping either of'em. Just exploring my options.

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If you have a CAD axle, my suggestion is to keep that axle housing, switch over to one piece axle right side. I say this because the CAD housing is BEEF, just look at it...doubt anybody has ever tore the upper right side mount off of one of those....

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May I ask what the common failure is with the disconnect system? I've kept my vacuum lines clear, but otherwise never messed with the axle end or transfer case side of things and never had an issue with shaft breakage, disengagement, or failure to engage. I've wheeled the thing fairly hard on 32" tires and used it in the snow many, many times. Its nice to have the front diff. free-wheeling when you're highway cruising, though I'm not sure exactly how much MPG is gained (it has to be something,) not to mention maybe slightly less wear and tear on the big parts of the differential. If it were easy or cheap to utilize the old-fashioned manual "lock-out" hubs of yesteryear on our stock HPD30s I might consider doing away with my factory disconnect feature, but who actually likes having to get out and manually lock/unlock the hubs...:P

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I would have to say the common failure would have to be the (about) 15 plastic to rubber to metal connections that can potentially leak vacuum.Not to say nothing about plastic lines getting brittle and breaking, or broke off. Then leaks developing in the actuator motor, or water/rust in the motor or....
Jeep did away with this system and went to a one piece axle for a reason.

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