Tomx31 Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 Hey guys, so a really big thanks to all the guys who helped me pick out the axles for my project manche. So the plan as of now is Dana 30 trussed and rebuilt aswell as regeared, and a ford 8.8 regeared(4:88) and rebuilt also. So while I'm working on the axles I want to put lockers in them. Now my Buddy recommended I should lock the front due to most the weight is in the front, opinions? Now I'm sorry thinking about using cable lockers instead of air or electric. Basically trying to kiss(keep it simple stupid) so this thing will be a tank. Anyone have opinions on cable locker? What to stay away from? And what brand? Thanks in advance you guys are amazing -Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 I would put a locker in the REAR first because on an incline or under acceleration that's where the weight shifts. also in my opinion, keeping it simple would mean a detroit auto locker in the rear. :thumbsup: but I would go with a selectable in the front. steering with a locked up front can sometimes be... challenging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 Consider a True Trac in the front. Or do some research and see if the gerotor limited slip from a '99 or 2000 WJ Grand Cherokee will fit the older Dana 30 axles. Those were used with the QuadraDrive system. They work exactly the opposite of the XJ/MJ TracLok. The TracLok is a clutch-type limited slip. The clutches are engaged (locked) until the two rear wheels develop enough torque differential to allow the clutches to slip. The QuadraDrive works the opposite. The diff is UNlocked until the two wheels on that axle spin with enough speed (not torque) difference to engage a mechanical pump that applies pressure to the clutches, locking the front axle. I had a '99 WJ with QuadraDrive. It had a lot of other problems that caused me to dump it and go back to a Cherokee, but the QuadraDrive system was fantastic, and the front diff was totally transparent on pavement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 I don't recall how hardcore that you intend to go but as mentioned a TrueTrac is a nice option in the front unless you are hitting it pretty hard. The Detroit rear/TrueTrac front is a simple & less expensive option that will work well. If your budget allows then selectable/selectable is the way to go. I have seen plenty of problems out of air lockers: leaks, broken lines, compressor failures. Cable lockers are less failure prone in regards to that type of thing. http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/154-1105-auto-vs-manual-differential-lockers/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue XJ Posted May 19, 2015 Share Posted May 19, 2015 I've ran front only locked, rear only locked, both auto locked and both with selectable. If you were just going to do 1, I would throw a lunch box in the front axle and call it good. I noticed more traction with just the front locked than I did with just the rear locked. Plus there is no concern about it on the street then either. Although now that I have two ARBs I find I usually only lock the rear. I get too much traction with the front lock and have a hard time turning the steering wheel on certain terrain. That's with a spool though, not an autolocker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJam86 Posted May 19, 2015 Share Posted May 19, 2015 ^ agreed. I did LOKKA front and an OX rear. Don't feel it in the street at all, rarely hear the click around turns. My steering gets harder to turn occasionally but not often since i did some PS upgrades. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee Posted May 19, 2015 Share Posted May 19, 2015 Have a lockrite in the front other than the click you'll never know it's there, yea can be a handfull on ice "just know its there and stay ready" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 Lockrite up front, 8.8 LSD out back, couldn't be happier. Like the fact that my locked axle is where all the weight is, makes sense to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue88Comanche Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 My D30 has a selectable E-Locker, and the D44 has an Aussie auto locker. I drive in full time 4wd all the time because I can with the NP242. I don't really notice the Aussie in full time 4wd or 2wd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schardein Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 I also have driven many combinations of open/open, locked/locked, limited slip/locked, etc, etc. including Detroit Locker, Truetrac, OX, Lockrite, Tracloc, EZ locker, Powerloc, etc. I run a OX locker in the rear of my CJ7, and a Detroit in front. Love the Detroit Locker for it's simplicity and since I have free wheeling hubs, when I unlock the hubs and disengage the rear OX, I am open/open for the street. The final choice is up to you, but this is my 2 cents. I built my Jeeps on a strict budget. But some of the best money I ever spent for new parts was a selectable locker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 I drive my Comanche all year long including in snow measured in feet and ice measured in inches on the road and off. I have never had any trouble with driving with a locked rear on road or off. Everyone has their preferences, though. Folks running a locked front/open rear: how do you deal with the significant front under steer? In very slick stuff it just plows forwards instead of turning in my experience Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 I drive my Comanche all year long including in snow measured in feet and ice measured in inches on the road and off. I have never had any trouble with driving with a locked rear on road or off. Everyone has their preferences, though. Folks running a locked front/open rear: how do you deal with the significant front under steer? In very slick stuff it just plows forwards instead of turning in my experience Drive slower, use 2wd most of the time, 4wd when needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 Folks running a locked front/open rear: how do you deal with the significant front under steer? In very slick stuff it just plows forwards instead of turning in my experience generally I curse myself loudly and repeatedly for cheaping out and installing a minispool up front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue XJ Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 I never had any issues in the snow with just a front locked. As long as I drove like I should when it's snowing out it was fine. I did notice it when one tire was on ice and the other on dry pavement and I hit the brakes hard, but that was about the only time. Actually, the first time it happened I think I pulled over and made sure all the pieces were still inside my axle. Lol. Those who have a lunch box up front know what I'm talking about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 :agree: Been fearful of opening the front punkin, but it keeps pulling, so oh well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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