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no problem they listed under a search for "explorer". Also that bottom one is cheap enough to buy it, pull the rear end, and then take it to the scrap yard and make all your money back.....

 

Make sure you check gear ratios. If you plan on re-gearing anyway I would only buy a 4.10 or 4.56 ratio axle. If you don't plan on re-gearing anytime soon you will want to get a matching ratio that is under your mj now. Remember your front and rear axles HAVE to have matching gears.

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no problem they listed under a search for "explorer". Also that bottom one is cheap enough to buy it, pull the rear end, and then take it to the scrap yard and make all your money back.....

 

Make sure you check gear ratios. If you plan on re-gearing anyway I would only buy a 4.10 or 4.56 ratio axle. If you don't plan on re-gearing anytime soon you will want to get a matching ratio that is under your mj now. Remember your front and rear axles HAVE to have matching gears.

Would that 95' have the right 8.8? I thought 96 and newer was what you want?

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Are there no junk yards around? They are pretty common.

I got one in town and there cheapest one is 500$

 

 

 

The picknpull in arlignton (About 40~ minutes from us) Has about a dozen explorers atm.

 

434-1 Axle Ft Assy Complete 4X4 P/U- Pick-Up/Van $249.99

434-2 Axle Ft Assy W/Ohubs/Drums4X4P Pick-Up/Van $175.99

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Well you won't find one with 3.07s. So here is what you will have to do.. Buy a non 4.10 and up 8.8 and regear the 8.8 and the dana 30 to match. Which will cost about $600-$800 plus the cost of the rear axle. Or buy a 8.8 with 4.10s or higher and just have to regear your dana 30 to match. $300-$400 to regear the dana 30, plus the cost of the 8.8 rear axle.  If you are going to have to regear anyway might as well hold out and get the 4.10. If you get luck enough you can find a rare 4.56 geared 8.8.

 

And once again, you will not be able to drive your comanche unless your front and rear axles match gears.

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Ya my plan is to just get the axle and fix it up a bit and paint it and that'll happen over a long period of time and once it's all ready and I have new Dana 30 parts like chromoly shafts locker and new gears I'll do the swap. It'll be awhile before I actually put it in. I just want to get one soon so I can work on it and learn some stuff

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Ya my plan is to just get the axle and fix it up a bit and paint it and that'll happen over a long period of time and once it's all ready and I have new Dana 30 parts like chromoly shafts locker and new gears I'll do the swap. It'll be awhile before I actually put it in. I just want to get one soon so I can work on it and learn some stuff

 

 

Thats what I have done with both of my axles. As funds allowed to buy parts.

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  • 2 weeks later...

If he means it is a D4 axle code (found on the drivers door sticker), then that means it is a 3.73 limited slip.  If the ID tag is still in place on the diff cover, it should be numeric.  Ex: 4L10 = 4.10 Limited slip.  4_10 = 4.10 Open.  3_73 = 3.73 open, and so on.
 

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  • 1 month later...

So i got my spring perches spaced out to the correct length. from outside to outside my springs are like 44.75 apart. so thats how far apart i put my new perches from the outside to the outside. Then I put my perch angle level with the housing at 0 degrees. I'm going to use shims to set pinion angle. Does this all sound correct? I'm trying to set all this up without pulling the dana 35, so thats why i want to use shims. Are they ok to use? thanks y'all

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  • 3 months later...

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