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Dead truck


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I was driving to work and my truck decided to stop running and won't restart. When it died it tried to keep running but was a lot of sputtering and back firing. Haven't had any issues with it until I replaced the radiator over the weekend. It has always been a little hard to start meaning it took several attempts to start when cranking it over. I have put new plugs,wires, cap and rotor on it and there was a little improvement. Any suggestions as where to start looking before I start replacing parts hoping to fix by process of elimination?

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One more thing I forgot to mention is my gauges went crazy when my truck acted up. My fuel gauge was at 1/4 when it started dying out the gauge went to way past full. Another thing I noticed was the temp went from a little over 100 shot up to 215 area. Looking at my fuse box the PO has put in all kinds of jumpers from the box itself. I will get some pictures of it when it's light outside. I'm thinking my problems lie in that jumbled mess of spaghetti wiring. Going to eliminate easiest thing first and hopefully don't have to tackle the mess he made there quite yet. Would like to have more than just a couple hours to play with it.

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Just pulled my CPS. looks like I found my problem. The wire running to sensor was touching the exhaust manifold. It had to be replaced regardless whether it helps with running or not. Encountered a little hiccup as I was taking bolts out. One on top fell and I can not find where it went. I didn't hear it hit the ground and I double checked the ground just to make sure. I'm hoping it didn't fall inside bell housing if it's even possible. With my luck that's exactly where it is and will have to pull the Trans out to get to it. When you guys say it's an easy fix I must have missed that class lol.

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I was driving to work and my truck decided to stop running and won't restart. When it died it tried to keep running but was a lot of sputtering and back firing. Haven't had any issues with it until I replaced the radiator over the weekend. It has always been a little hard to start meaning it took several attempts to start when cranking it over. I have put new plugs,wires, cap and rotor on it and there was a little improvement. Any suggestions as where to start looking before I start replacing parts hoping to fix by process of elimination?

Thanks for your post.
 
We’re here to help, but you must understand that all Jeeps are not the same. 
In order for us to give you more accurate advice and help, we must know the following, as applicable, along with detailed information as to the symptoms/problems etc:
 
Year
Model
Engine 
Transmission 
Transfer case
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That's a very good point. It didn't even cross my mind when I posted sorry. It is an 89 with a 4.0 in it. I am new to jeeps so as far as what my tranny and transfer case is I have no idea other than it being a 5 speed. I am trying to learn as much as possible about as time passes. Thanks to the people here I learned which axles I have in it and some other things as well. Thanks so much to everyone. Great group of guys. ☺

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Just an FYI, those CPS bolts are shouldered and provide very specific spacing on the sensor tip in regards to the flywheel.  I wouldn't just replace one with a "regular" bolt.....find the one inside the BH and use it.  There should be an inspection plate bolted to the bottom half of the trans (for an AX15 at least, I've never dealt with the other 5 speed variant called a BA10/5).  You can't remove the plate without pulling the trans, but you can unbolt it and pry it away from the trans a little bit.  That combined with pulling the starter should get you access to the missing critter.  Odds are that it is sitting up against the plate on the inside, at the bottom.  Good luck.

 

Jeff

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Just an FYI, those CPS bolts are shouldered and provide very specific spacing on the sensor tip in regards to the flywheel.  I wouldn't just replace one with a "regular" bolt.....find the one inside the BH and use it.  There should be an inspection plate bolted to the bottom half of the trans (for an AX15 at least, I've never dealt with the other 5 speed variant called a BA10/5).  You can't remove the plate without pulling the trans, but you can unbolt it and pry it away from the trans a little bit.  That combined with pulling the starter should get you access to the missing critter.  Odds are that it is sitting up against the plate on the inside, at the bottom.  Good luck.

 

Jeff

Correct. I have a photo somewhere. 

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Looking at photos I believe I have the BA 10/5. Not positive on it but looks similar. I will be tackling the task after work tonight since tomorrow is my day off. I don't want to get started on it then have to stop mid way. Thank you for pointing out its a specific bolt that has to be used. I will definitely put the correct bolts back in. Next time I replace I will make sure to use magnetic sockets lol.

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No luck going from the starter to retrieve bolt. I was able to get the cover loosened enough to pull it back and feel around for the bolt. It appears the bolt is stuck on the teeth of the flywheel. So definitely have to pull transmission to get to it.

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The bolt is probably somewhere on the clutch pressure plate housing.  You can hand crank your engine with the tranny in neutral with a socket on the front crank damper nut either way until you hear the bolt drop.   Peeling back the spacer plate at the bottom of the bell housing is probably the best way to get at it.  Your real problem is problably a MAP vacuum tube leak.

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Thanks cruiser. That's a huge help.

And, you'll only need to pull the trans back a little bit I'm guessing!! 

 

You'll be a champ!!

 

But always remember this when dealing with wives:

 

You can go from Champ to Chump in milliseconds!!!!

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Would anyone know how much it would cost to have the transmission pulled out and put back in? I'm trying to explain to the wife how much money I'm saving by doing the work myself.

 

Just think how many $$ you would have saved if you didn't lose the bolt.  :yes:   I did the same thing with an AW4. Fished for the bolt for half a day with magnets until I got tired of it, pulled the distributor rotor, touched the START key, then PLINK. It dropped out through the inspection plate gap. No worries.

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Would anyone know how much it would cost to have the transmission pulled out and put back in? I'm trying to explain to the wife how much money I'm saving by doing the work myself.

 

Just think how many $$ you would have saved if you didn't lose the bolt.  :yes:   I did the same thing with an AW4. Fished for the bolt for half a day with magnets until I got tired of it, pulled the distributor rotor, touched the START key, then PLINK. It dropped out through the inspection plate gap. No worries.

 

Confession time Don. i just grabbed a spare, installed it, and never looked back!! LOL. 

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