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Ladder/lumber rack


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Not sure if this is the right subforum for this, but anyways. I want to construct a ladder/lumber rack for my shortbed MJ. I need to be able to carry wood boards and ladders etc from time to time. The in bed toolbox near the cab needs to remain usable. And I would like to have it be removable so that when I don't need it I won't have to drive around with it on. Anybody did anything similar? I've got a few ideas but was wondering what other ideas are out there being most racks I've come across use the stake pockets and our trucks lack that feature.

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This is a web pick but very similar to one I had made....still allowed access to the rear slider and the bed toolbox but was easy to pop on and off....i just used bolts through the angle irons at the bottom of the legs.

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Mine was made of 1.5" x 1.5" square tubing.

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I use a Thule Xsporter for my Jeep.  They are really well made & I bought mine on CL for about 1/2of  that retail price. I use it for my kayaks and canoes beside ladders and lumber.    Good to about 450 pounds.

 

http://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/82870?productId=1376600&attrValue_0=Not%20Applicable&mr:trackingCode=69F66779-7B9C-E311-B8AB-90E2BA285E75&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=c&mr:adType=pla&mkwid=YRPYegJY_dc&pcrid=55725345680&qs=3091386_google&product=0PCQ600000&cvosrc=cse.google.0PCQ600000&cvo_crid=55725345680

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Thanks for all of the suggestions on racks for purchase, but I am dead set on building my own, I have the tools and the time over winter layoff. I have been looking at the commercial made racks to get some ideas, are there any specific designs or features that you have found to be essential?

 

Also I don't know if this is really the best part of the forum for this topic, is there a better place to post these questions and such being it's not really tech specific to the MJ?

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Working on a design for the rack currently, it will be the first I've ever made. Does anyone think 1"x1"x 1/8" tube will be thick enough material?

 

It would depend on the amount of weight you want up there......With 1x1 it also might not look aesthetically correct....it might look too dainty (IMHO) look at the pics above.

 

Mine was 1.5 x 1.5....1/8 wall.... Looked good and carried a good load

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What kind of weight are we talking? Also, where will you mount the base of this rack? I'm sceptical of using the bed rails, Most tubesteps on rocksliders are 1/8 to 3/16th thick as far as wall goes, diameter is up to you.

I'm thinking maximum weight would be around 4-500lbs. But most often will be in 2-300lbs range. This will mostly be used to move longer pieces of lumber (I have the shortbed and a toolbox) and ladders and allowing bed space for tools and smaller materials. I was planning on using a piece of angle as the "feet" to sit on the bed rails and using another piece under the bed rail and bolting it all together to sandwich the bed rails.

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I would probably look at using larger tubing with a thinner wall. I also think rectangular tubing would look nice. Make the rear crossbar removable and think about using angle iron that will go the full length of the bed rail for the rack to mount onto instead of just individual pieces under each leg.

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I would probably look at using larger tubing with a thinner wall. I also think rectangular tubing would look nice. Make the rear crossbar removable and think about using angle iron that will go the full length of the bed rail for the rack to mount onto instead of just individual pieces under each leg.

What would be the advantage of having larger tube other than aesthetics? And why full length angle as opposed to angle feet, wouldn't end up full length completely as I will not be removing the tool box.

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Aluminum tube would look good. Much better than steel or iron. Larger diameter would be stronger and could be thinner also.

I do agree that aluminum tube would work better and weight less, but aluminum is not something I am setup to work with, I wouldn't be able to weld it all up.

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http://metalgeek.com/static/deflection.php

 

check out this calculator. Use the setting for free ends because your rack will be able to flex. You will see that going up in tube size will give much more strength and you can drop the wall thickness to save weight. As far as running the angle the full length of the bed I would do it simply to protect the bed sides. And I would remove the tool box and set it on top of the angle iron. The main thing is to use a calculator to estimate the load capacity.

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