Lift Questions -- Ride Quality and Flex

[shelbyluvv]

I have built an XJ on a 2" BB with 33s. I trimmed a little bit of fender and bump stopped it keep the tires out of my inner fender structure. I ran wheels with 3.75" back spacing. I used the upper fender flare line as my guide and just cut it all off.

 

It can be done and it works very well.

[JesseFourOh]

Just FYI: tj/xj/mj all share the same 5x4.5 bolt pattern. If the rims fit your tj they will fit your xj or mj axles without adapters. YJ/KJ/zj/kk/mk also share that pattern

 

I have to go with adapters because my TJ has full size Ford axles -- so I have the 5x5.5" bolt patern.

 

 

 

JesseFourOh

You Sir, NEED to Keep this in mind.......

XJ Weight on Springs is not even Close to HALF the rating of MJ's.

Even the Heaviest of the XJ Leafs are about HALF of the MJ Leafs.

 

There is Much Documented Proof of this FACT.

 

As for what you are wanting to do, I too, would like to see it when done. 

 

I put 31's on mine Initially ( Now I'm on 33", can go to 35" with No Rubbing )

Front:  5" Lift, with Factory Wheels. There was Massive Rubbing on the LCA.

Made adjustments to get 6" Lift, Spacers for Wheels, Different LCA,

Rear:  Modified SOA, gave me 6 1/ 2" Lift.1" Spacers for Wheels.

Now I'm Good. All of This with No Cutting.

 

 

Good to know on the spring rates.  I am actually surprised that an MJ is that much heavier in the back.  I am looking at a few options -- One possibility is coil springs in the back and a triangulated 4-link.  I haven't taken apart the BDS XJ springs yet, but will look at them this weekend.  Not sure if this is doable, but I was also thinking of using an XJ spring(propbably close to stock), and doing SOA.  I know the XJ springs are shorter ear to ear, but I thought this may work if I move th mounts-- I just have to figure out what spring to get that would  net ~3-4" of lift with the SOA.

 

As for the front, I may just runs some modifed JK comtrol arms -- they are bent to clear tires, and are very easy to make work on a TJ/XJ/MJ.  My brother put some on his TJ for a 1.5" stretch in the front, and I have a jig to make them the right length. I have a line on some 4" XJ springs and they will proably be free.  Not sure on the brand.

 

I will definitely post pics as I progress.  The end goal is to put 35s underneath it and keep it as low as possible.  I am not affraid to cut, though I will not cut up MJ specific stuff(except for my the box which is not that great to begin with).

 

Aside from the suspension, I just picked up 1997-2001 XJ doors, front fenders, header panel, and grill today. 

[HOrnbrod]

You Sir, NEED to Keep this in mind.......

XJ Weight on Springs is not even Close to HALF the rating of MJ's.

Even the Heaviest of the XJ Leafs are about HALF of the MJ Leafs.

 

There is Much Documented Proof of this FACT.

 

GrizzzzzzBear, sure would like to see the "Much Documented Proof of this FACT". Please provide.

[Assman603]

 

If stock height will fit 32's (and you're limited by rubbing lower control arms in the front) why wouldn's 35's fit with a 3" lift?

I have never seen a stock mj/xj with 32" tires. 31" is the most I have seen and depending on what wheels you use you can have trouble rubbing in different spots. I have heard of people having rubbing wit 235/75/15's I say 3" for 31" tires unless you want to trim.

I don't know about you guys. But i fit 35's on a stock height xj by just cutting fenders and folding over pinch welds.

[Incommando]

Below is a pic of 32" tires on 5.5" lift for the front and a SOA in the rear with copious amounts of fender trimming front & rear. The TJ flares cover some of the cut out. Based on the flex that I have and the motion range of those 32's I would think that if you lowered that 6" or so to stock height the tires would tear the heck out of the body when flexed & articulated even with the trimming. I suppose you could trim enough to put 35's on stock but you would probably have to limit the crap out of your suspension. Maybe using the marginal stock pieces at stock height keeps it from being a problem? For me I would rather have the articulation. 

 

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[mvusse]

I ran 35s on 6.5" lift and had to cut the rear fender flares some to allow full up travel. Lift helps clear the top of the tire, but a tire is not shaped like a fence pole, it is round. You also need to clear the front and rear of the tire.  And you also have to keep wheel width and offset/backspacing in mind as well as tire width. Too much backspacing and the inside of the tire starts rubbing things. Too little backspacing and the front tires follow an arc when steering causing problems with the front and rear of the wheel openings, or in extremes even with the fenders removed with the doors and bumper. Lower backspacing also puts a lot more strain on the unit bearings.

 

My daughter's Cherokee runs 32s and had about 3" of lift with rubbing on the control arms and sway bar during near full lock steering. It is currently sitting at 4.5" and still rubs the same. This is with WJ lower control arms and 16" KJ Liberty rims. It ran 31s at stock height on the stock wheels for a bit but I had minor clearance problems with the rear wheel wells. Mind you, the rear wheel wells on a Comanche are larger than on a Cherokee.

[Incommando]

Also remember that a 35" tire only raises the vehicle 1.5" higher than a 32" tire, not 3" as the tire heights lead novices to believe. So bigger tires with no lift do very little for getting your belly and other goodies higher. Break-over and departure angles as well as center ground clearance to prevent high centering are much more critical with longer wheel base vehicles with a longish rear overhang like an MJ. Moving the suspension away from the body via lift is how you increase that. The height from the bottom of the trans crossmember to the ground on my 32" tire/5.5" lift truck (just for example) will be 4" higher than on a rig with 35's and no lift. That "no uptravel drag the belly over everything" fad seems to be going away finally and folks are realizing some ground clearance is not a bad thing.