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Kickdown Cable adjustment question


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I adjusted my kickdown cable a few months ago and just for kicks I wanted to double check this weekend I followed the procedures to the letter a few times just to verify the consistency but every time I would adjust it the plunger would stick out a different length, I tried lubing the crap out of the cable but still made no difference do you guys suggest a new cable? or if some of you can provide a measurement for how much the plunger sticks out I'd really appreciate it.      1989 Comanche 2WD 4.0/AW4   thanks.

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Unless it makes the trans start acting strange, I wouldn't worry about it. I've noticed this behavior (although it isn't a huge difference, it never really seems to come back to the exact same spot) on mine and it shifts like it should. The system is supposed to adjust the cable where it needs to be, but I doubt that there is or ever was a huge amount of precision in the adjuster.

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Don't know what's wrong with mine, 'cause unless I hold the release button down, that plunger won't come out at all. Nothing I could do would pull it out. And my 1990 FSM adjustment instructions don't exactly jive with the instructions in Cruiser's link. My manual instructions read:

 

1) Turn igniton switch to OFF position.

2) Fully retract cable plunger. Press the cable button all the way down. Then push cable plunger inward.

3) Rotate primary throttle lever to wide open throttle position.

4) Hold primary throttle lever in wide open position and let cable plunger extend. Release lever when plunger is fully extended. Cable is now adjusted. 

 

So it was never clear to me whether to hold the button down while opening the throttle lever, or release it first. The other thing is that, as I said, the only way the plunger will extend is to push the button down. But when I do that and open the throttle lever all the way, the plunger comes out so far that when the throttle lever is released, the plunger will be sticking out so far as to prevent it from closing completely. So I've just set the plunger to stick out about an inch or so, and figured the hell with it. And it drives just fine, seems to downshift when it should.  

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That's what I'm saying doesn't work....won't "ratchet" with the button released. It will hold the plunger all the way in and prevent any further opening of the throttle. I'm fine with it as is.

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As a side note does anyone know if the kick down cables were different lengths between the years? I've got a 97 xj that has a 88 aw4/242 swapped in it and the kick down cable is extremely short, it comes up right behind the head and just barely reaches the mounting bracket that it's supposed to clip into.

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As a side note does anyone know if the kick down cables were different lengths between the years? I've got a 97 xj that has a 88 aw4/242 swapped in it and the kick down cable is extremely short, it comes up right behind the head and just barely reaches the mounting bracket that it's supposed to clip into.

They are different. 

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Don't know what's wrong with mine, 'cause unless I hold the release button down, that plunger won't come out at all. Nothing I could do would pull it out. And my 1990 FSM adjustment instructions don't exactly jive with the instructions in Cruiser's link. My manual instructions read:

 

1) Turn igniton switch to OFF position.

2) Fully retract cable plunger. Press the cable button all the way down. Then push cable plunger inward.

3) Rotate primary throttle lever to wide open throttle position.

4) Hold primary throttle lever in wide open position and let cable plunger extend. Release lever when plunger is fully extended. Cable is now adjusted. 

 

So it was never clear to me whether to hold the button down while opening the throttle lever, or release it first. The other thing is that, as I said, the only way the plunger will extend is to push the button down. But when I do that and open the throttle lever all the way, the plunger comes out so far that when the throttle lever is released, the plunger will be sticking out so far as to prevent it from closing completely. So I've just set the plunger to stick out about an inch or so, and figured the hell with it. And it drives just fine, seems to downshift when it should.  

This is EXACTLY why i started this thread,,,, its why I'm wondering if my cable is busted.

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I'm sure mine is not busted. I can definitely tell the difference in downshift response if I change the adjustment. I just made the comment because my adjuster does not work as illustrated by everyone else.

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I'm sure mine is not busted. I can definitely tell the difference in downshift response if I change the adjustment. I just made the comment because my adjuster does not work as illustrated by everyone else.

 

Mine didn't ratchet either when I first tried to adjust it either, probably because it had never been adjusted before. By spraying it with WD-40 into the sheath while working the button and gently pulling it ( :eek:) it did finally move and ratchet as advertised.

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As a side note does anyone know if the kick down cables were different lengths between the years? I've got a 97 xj that has a 88 aw4/242 swapped in it and the kick down cable is extremely short, it comes up right behind the head and just barely reaches the mounting bracket that it's supposed to clip into.

 

The throttle cables for the HO and Renix years were different lengths because of the throttle body. The Renix 2.5 and 4.0 models used different cables, and the Renix cables were shorter than the HO cable. All the HO cables were the same, p/n 52079504. Are you using the HO cable?

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No judging by the cable length the P.O. used the renix cable. It comes up directly behind the head, over the valve cover and straight to the bracket it clips into at an almost 90* angle. Was just kind of hoping they didn't route it properly when changing the trans but looks like something I'll have to hunt for at the JY. I've never looked at it before but can it be removed from the transmission with ease or is it pretty involved to remove it?

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