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helping a friend, striped drain plug


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guys, my bud has a 92 yj, 2.5. his oil drain plug is striped to the point where he can't get it out. tried turning while prying and still no go. service stations say he must replace the whole pan. i found a time sert oil drain plug repair kit used. can he drill the old plug out and repair with the kit, or should he replace the pan? does anyone have a used one? or part# and vendor for a reasonably priced new one?

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The pan got stripped very early in the truck's life.  For years I just kept using and replacing off the shelf repair plugs.  Finally got tired of this.  I bought a new pan and replaced the whole thing.

 

My 2¢, anything other than a replacement pan is just delaying the inevitable.

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THe plug in my 01 TJ (2.5) stripped, I've got pics somewhere.  Tried everything I could think of to get it to turn out but no luck.  Ended up having to buy a new pan.  Just so you know, the 2.5 pan is a dealership only item......don't try to find an aftermarket one.  A bit over $200, and at my dealership at least, was a non-returnable part since it was a special order item.  You can try a junkyard, but be careful.  My local yards just drill a hole in the oil and tranny pans to drain them before they set them in the field to be picked.

 

Ended up drilling a hole in the pan next to the plug to drain the oil, then dropped the old pan to put the new one on.  Turns out, the nut on the inside of the pan is epoxyed on, not even tack welded.

 

Not trying to bring you down, just letting you know what yer gonna need to do.  Good luck.

 

Jeff

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so, know one has ever repaired their drain plug hole using the time sert repair kit? my friend is going to try and drill out the old plug and rethread the hole and use the time sert insert. thoughts???

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If it were me-

 

Remove pan.

Use hole saw to cut hole around the existing drain. Use saw that is just larger than the nut as to use the nut as a guide for the saw.

Go the muffler shop or auto store and get a new bung.

TIG new bung to pan. If you cannot TIG or find someone who can....braze it in. I would not try to MIG it and take the risk of blowing a hole in the pan, metal is too thin, I also would not want a leak at the weld by not having a continuous weld.

 

Clean pan and reinstall.

 

The idea of drilling it out and repair in place is simply stupid, you will not get all metal shaving out of the pan and you will ask for future troubles.

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If it were me-

 

Remove pan.

Use hole saw to cut hole around the existing drain. Use saw that is just larger than the nut as to use the nut as a guide for the saw.

Go the muffler shop or auto store and get a new bung.

TIG new bung to pan. If you cannot TIG or find someone who can....braze it in. I would not try to MIG it and take the risk of blowing a hole in the pan, metal is too thin, I also would not want a leak at the weld by not having a continuous weld.

 

Clean pan and reinstall.

 

The idea of drilling it out and repair in place is simply stupid, you will not get all metal shaving out of the pan and you will ask for future troubles.

i here ya, but that being said, i did my bimmer oil pan with the ts kit and it worked great, a 20 minute fix. i covered the bit with bearing grease and the shavings all stuck to that. i then puored 2 qts of cheap oil through the enging and just let it run out to flush out any left over shavings. my concern is, is the yj pan robust enough to be tapped and an insert installed/

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if you get it out here is the cats @$$

http://www.qwikvalve.com/?gclid=CKeQ_pff3L8CFQgKaQod-E4A-A

 

 

That would make me nervous. I'd have to get the lock one...

 

I have one on my XK under the skid plate its a great time saver. it dose have a very good positive lock on it.

as far as the time cert I just checked out there web site. it looks like it will work, for the pan I guess it depends on how much over size you have to drill. as long as it stays within the thicken boss of the original plug it should work as well as your last experience with it

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If it were me-

 

Remove pan.

Use hole saw to cut hole around the existing drain. Use saw that is just larger than the nut as to use the nut as a guide for the saw.

Go the muffler shop or auto store and get a new bung.

TIG new bung to pan. If you cannot TIG or find someone who can....braze it in. I would not try to MIG it and take the risk of blowing a hole in the pan, metal is too thin, I also would not want a leak at the weld by not having a continuous weld.

 

Clean pan and reinstall.

 

The idea of drilling it out and repair in place is simply stupid, you will not get all metal shaving out of the pan and you will ask for future troubles.

i here ya, but that being said, i did my bimmer oil pan with the ts kit and it worked great, a 20 minute fix. i covered the bit with bearing grease and the shavings all stuck to that. i then puored 2 qts of cheap oil through the enging and just let it run out to flush out any left over shavings. my concern is, is the yj pan robust enough to be tapped and an insert installed/

 

 

Pan has to come off either way right?.......Find 2 bolts that are same size but about 2-3 inches longer than his 2 left and right side pan bolts....remove and replace the two front bolts with the longer ones.....remove all the other bolts but the 2 back ones.....put a catch pan under the oil pan.......a small jack (crank style or hydrolic) would help under the pan sitting in your catch pan.....undo the last 2 bolts slowly lower the pan catching the oil in the catch pan......when it gets to the point of being manigable remove the 2 front long bolts.......

 

Once you have the pan out now you can decide....

1) you already have the time sert oil drain plug repair kit try to install it....with the pan out it will be easyier.

2) The method described above were you hole saw out the old bung and weld in a new one

3) $$$ new pan

 

:dunno:       . :MJ 1: . 

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To drain the oil pan you can pickup a drill pump and pump out the oil via the dipstick tube. I've had one of the Jabsco pumps below for years and use it to pump out tranny fluid, diff oil, aquariums, heat pump condensate pans, plumbing disasters; just about anything. Very handy to have.

 

41Htq3AAFRL._SY355_.jpg

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To drain the oil pan you can pickup a drill pump and pump out the oil via the dipstick tube. I've had one of the Jabsco pumps below for years and use it to pump out tranny fluid, diff oil, aquariums, heat pump condensate pans, plumbing disasters; just about anything. Very handy to have.

 

41Htq3AAFRL._SY355_.jpg

 

Good tip........I hope you pumped out the aquarium BEFORE the tranny and the diff............ :laughin:

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https://www.google.com/shopping/product/273849880194809654?q=bolt+extractor+irwin&num=20&hl=en&gbv=2&prmd=ivns&sa=X&ei=vo3SU8_OE_G_sQSblIG4Ag&ved=0CCQQ8wIwAA

 

They have saved my bacon 50 times now at least! Worth every penny!

 

EDIT: I see the inside of the pan is stripped.

 

Ummm, yeah... replace the pan. Just drill a hole in it to get the oil out and be done with it.

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I'll post some pics either tonight or tomorrow of my old pan so y'all can see what you're dealing with inside the pan.  If the nut inside the pan has broken away from the pan wall, there is no way you can drill and tap it.  It will just spin, like it is doing with the OEM plug.  Even if you managed to get the plug out, that nut would fall back into the sump, and the pan wall is too thin to tap threads into.

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well my friend got the drain hole all done. the time sert repair worked just as advertised. 20 minute fix while the pan was still on the jeep. if anyone needs to do this repair, hit me up, there's 3 inserts left in the kit. 

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