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$700 Off Road Capable 5.5" Soa Lift


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Doing an SOA can seem less expensive but it is often not as cheap as you might think. A lot depends on what you want out of the lift when you consider the end use of your jeep. Do you want a great on-road ride at the possible cost of lessened off-road ability? Do you want the best off-road bang for your buck while still using quality parts? The best part of a SOA lift may be that you can piece it together as your budget allows and then assemble it when you have all of the pieces. You can also scour various for sale forums to find better deals on new and/or good used parts to lower the costs. 

 

With these things in mind here are the parts than I am gathering for my SOA:

 

 

 

"Budget" SOA 5.5” lift.

 

Front RE 5.5" Springs                                                                                                          $87

http://mudflaps.com/i-7093397-rubicon-express-re1345-coil-springs-jeep-xj-5-5-jeep-zj-4-pair.html 

Adjustable Track Bar                                                              $128

http://mudflaps.com/search.html?q=+RE1600&go=Search

 

IRO link adapters                                                                                                                  $13

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-SBLUB&Category_Code=UP

 

RE1175 links                                                                                                                          $29

http://mudflaps.com/i-7093357-rubicon-express-re1175-sway-bar-end-links-jeep-xj-zj-tj.html

 

Fixed lower & adjustable upper control arms                                                                  $269

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-SHDCA&Category_Code=XSP

Allows for adjustment of the pinion angle while keeping the adjuster tucked up high. Save $20 by using fixed upper & lowers

 

Barnes 4wd axle swap kit D44 3” tube                                                                              $115

http://www.barnes4wd.com/Dana-44-Axle-Swap-Combo_p_129.html

Pick your tube Diameter: 2.75” for stock MJ axles or 3.0” for 8.25 swap. Includes perches, high quality u-bolts, spring plates, & shock mounts. I swapped to bent & curved shock mounts for free

 

 

Front brake hose 88-2000 c1500 oreilly $14x2                                                                  $28

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Brake+Hose/03349/C0066.oap?model=C1500+Pickup+RWD&vi=1031094&year=1988&make=Chevrolet

 

rear brake hose 89-96 dakota oreilly                                                                                 $23

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BHH1/BH38636/03349.oap?year=1990&make=Dodge&model=Dakota&vi=1087433&ck=Search_03349_1087433_2121&pt=03349&ppt=C0066

                                                                         

 Total                                                                                                                                      $692

 

Add Shocks

F. shocks Rusty's RX16  29.92 17.52 S1 BP-7                                                                   + $66

http://www.rustysoffroad.com/rustys-rx100-performance-shock-rx-16.html/

R. shocks Rusty's RX11 29.82 17.67 EB1-A EB1-B                                                           + $66

 http://www.rustysoffroad.com/rustys-rx100-performance-shock-rx-11.html/

 

I left the shocks off of the initial total as I am willing to use the basic hydro version but others may not want them. Although the front shocks may be selected based on lift height please remember that your rear shock choice will be dictated by how you mount them. The only sure way to know what you need is to flex and compress your springs after the lift is done and use those measurements.  You can adjust the front or rear height if needed to get the stance that you want by using spacers, shackles, or blocks. The rear shocks listed above are a good starting point based on the shocks included in various SOA kits available when those kits use weld-on shock mounts.

 

You will need extended bump stops unless you are making a pavement queen..and you should have them then, too. You can spends a couple of bucks and fab them yourself or spend hundreds and anything in between. I will fab mine and I don't believe it will cost me over $10. 

 

I am going with the fixed lower/adjustable upper control arms from my personal observations. The fixed lower centers the axle in the wheel well while the adjustable upper allows for pinion angle adjustment to combat death wobble. I chose to use an adjustable upper over an adjustable lower to keep the adjustment pieces up out of the way. You can also go fixed/fixed or adjustable/adjustable based on your desires. I avoided drop brackets as from my experience while wheeling with CAD bracket equipped XJ's and an MJ the brackets may hit in several off-road situations. While I have not seen a bracket itself fail I have seen the bracket smash the "frame" it was attached to when coming off of a rock. The blow would not have occurred without the low-hanging CAD brackets as in this case a short-armed XJ of a similar lift height and tire size had previously made the same drop without contact. While the CAD brackets do provide a superior on-road ride they may lead to trouble in certain off-road situations . I want to eliminate that possibility. The choice is another personal preference thing but a good quality CAD bracket kit designed for the MJ and not requiring modification is comparable in price to my control arm selection. My choice also has less labor involved especially in the rust belt. 

 

The track bar I have in the list is perfectly adequate. A popular upgrade is a double shear track bar with a stronger body-side mount available from many sources. IRO has a good set as does RE (1660 + 1665)

 

Using anti-seize on the sway bar links makes them easier to disconnect. As with any disconnect make sure to include a hay to hold the links up out of the way when disconnect even if it is just zip ties. Disconnects are a nice upgrade with a wide range in price for a set. 

 

With the addition of shocks you can see that such a SOA lift is knocking on the price-range door of some pre-assembled kits for a similar lift height and in some cases exceeding it. However many of the lift kits at this price-range are of an inferior quality and lack some of the parts, such as adjustable control arms and/or a complete control arm set, that I included and that many feel are required for the best performance.  Research which way you want to go. 

 

Many thanks to Alexia for pioneering the way with his research and sources. His SOA lift is very thorough and well planned. I went a different way as our end goals are different.  http://comancheclub.com/topic/35519-55-600-mj-lift-cheap-high-quality-100-complete-lift/page-5 

 

I will also document the install and results as it occurs in my build thread.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/28522-incommandos-4x2-redux/ 

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Many many XJ's run lifts of this height without drop brackets and have no issues. I have seen it/driven it/done it. The IRO bent fixed LCA's are designed with your concern in mind. There are several charts showing the needed length for a given lift height. Having the LCA's pre-made to the right length eliminates the issues you are referring to and you still have the factory adjustments to fine tune the front suspension via normal alignment procedures. The LCA's do not care whether they are fixed or adjustable as long as they are within the correctable length via alignment for your lift height. Having one set or the other adjustable aids in setting the caster back to stock to avoid other issues although you can run fixed/fixed IF both sets are the correct length. 

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The IRO bent fixed LCA's are designed with this in mind. There are several charts showing the needed length for your lift. Having the LCA's pre-made to the right length eliminates the issues you are referring to and you still have the factory adjustments to fine tune the front suspension via normal alignment procedures. Many many XJ's run without drop brackets and have no issues. I have seen it/driven it/done it. 

get er done, lets have a look

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http://www.nonamestudios.com/experimentalinsanity.com/vehicle/resources/mj-lift.html

 

Here's a good write up on everything for a 5.5 lift.

 

Few people, myself included, use this setup.

That is Alexia's lift and I linked it above

 

 

 

 

The IRO bent fixed LCA's are designed with this in mind. There are several charts showing the needed length for your lift. Having the LCA's pre-made to the right length eliminates the issues you are referring to and you still have the factory adjustments to fine tune the front suspension via normal alignment procedures. Many many XJ's run without drop brackets and have no issues. I have seen it/driven it/done it.

get er done, lets have a look
Due to other projects this will be a driveway job. It will have to warm up a bit. It was 22 today
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http://www.nonamestudios.com/experimentalinsanity.com/vehicle/resources/mj-lift.html

 

Here's a good write up on everything for a 5.5 lift.

 

Few people, myself included, use this setup.

That is Alexia's lift and I linked it above

 

 

 

The IRO bent fixed LCA's are designed with this in mind. There are several charts showing the needed length for your lift. Having the LCA's pre-made to the right length eliminates the issues you are referring to and you still have the factory adjustments to fine tune the front suspension via normal alignment procedures. Many many XJ's run without drop brackets and have no issues. I have seen it/driven it/done it.

get er done, lets have a look
Due to other projects this will be a driveway job. It will have to warm up a bit. It was 22 today

 

Ah, Tbh i just glanced through the list & didnt read much pass it. Was in a hurry >_<

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Due to other projects this will be a driveway job. It will have to warm up a bit. It was 22 today

 

Sorry, it was like 75 here today, wish it would warm up so the snowbirds would go home and so you would work on your comanche.

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I was happy it warmed up to 10ºF today so I could pull my starter off... was going to do it anyway at some point this weekend even with -60ºF windchill but I didn't have time. Don't know what y'all are complaining about.

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Mud flaps.com really came through. Those RE springs arrived within 5 days of ordering them. The price is great. I am using them for the RE1660 HD  adjustable track bar with new mount RE1665 as it is a quality set and is over $30 cheaper than IRO when you included shipping. As budget is a part of this....

 

A shout out to Barnes as well. Extremely well-built product on my door step 2 days after I ordered them without ridiculously inflated shipping costs.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Got all of my parts here or in transit. Hope to start the weekend of the 18th.... As this is a 4x4 conversion and a lift at the same time it might take a little longer. 


 


( it hit 60 here today. Shorts and t-shirt weather finally...)


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I'm needing some shocks for lifting the cheromanche. Was looking at the rusty's link you gave and wanting to know when you have them if the front shocks are ready to bolt in with the stud on top and the bar pin on bottom or if it's just dual eyelets like the pictures show on the website.

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  • 3 weeks later...

:popcorn: I'm thinking about doing this, this summer if money allows. I will be going with B Lee offroad's long arms though since theyre only like $300 more than getting adj. uppers and lowers. And I want to stretch the front about two inches as well...but who know's we'll see :shake:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Looks good, Jacob.

 

Here is how far I have made it on mine:

 

I have an 8.25 swapped in and the leafs mounted on the Barnes perches. I still have to swap the D30 in ( this is a conversion to 4wd at the same time) and do the front lift.

 

The SOA gave me 5" of lift at the rear with 2wd springs. It looks like a little more then 5" but that is because I had previously cut out a lot of rust and added the TJ rear flares at all four corners

 

Here is the new tire/wheel combo:

Mounted on 7" wide rims these measure 32 1/8"s.

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Lift is on...still buttoning some things up....

 

Must just be the angle the pic was taken, But your rear axle looks like two feet narrower than the front

 

Been thinking of doing the TJ flares on mine, Was it much of a hassle getting them to work?

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Lift is on...still buttoning some things up....

 

Must just be the angle the pic was taken, But your rear axle looks like two feet narrower than the front

 

Been thinking of doing the TJ flares on mine, Was it much of a hassle getting them to work?

 

No hassle. Those were a quick slap-on. They were put on after I trimmed off all of the area around the factory flares due to rust. I intend to replace them and do a better job. How I did them was to trim off the lip on the back of the TJ flares. I then put masking tape on the body around the new widened wheel wells so that I could easily see any alignment marks that I made. Then I put the flares up to the body and aligned them with the crease in the body. I loosely clamped them on. I then marked the flare's mounting holes onto the tape on the body, took the flares back off, and drilled the holes. I sprayed a little paint on the fresh holes and bolted the flares back on. You could also ( don't laugh) zip tie the flares on so instead of bolting them so that they would give if you hit something off road instead of tearing. Or with a couple of bucks worth of zip ties you could attach them with zip ties & remove them altogether to go 'wheeling and pop them back on quickly when you went back on the road. I also did the cut & fold on the body behind the rear wheel wells to better match the flare line.

 

Both axles are from the same '98 XJ. Although the rear axles on MJ's/XJ's are a tad narrower then the fronts it must be the camera angle. It does look a lot more narrow in that pic, though. With the spacers and wider tires It will look better.

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