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Who makes a fixed coolant temperature sensor that will fit a 1993 XJ Thermostat housing. I have converted my 1989 MJ 4.0 I-6 closed cooling system to an open one using the parts from the 1993 XJ from the radiator to the coolant reserve bottle and the thermostat housing. I just need a fixed thermal switch which is either on/off. The ECU recieves its information from the coolant temperture sensor on the drivers side of the engine block, so I only need and on/off switch that is thermostaticly controlled. :headpop: Does this sound right :nuts:

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This was already answered in your previous thread:

 

The HO does have the sender in the thermostat housing, but the stock 1989 sensor from the radiator tank won't fit the hole in a thermostat housing. And you can't use the HO sender, because the old sender is just an ON-OFF switch, but the new style is a variable resistor that sends actual data to the ECU and the ECU (on the HO system) in turn controls the aux fan.

 

There are a few (a VERY few) senders that will fit the t-stat housing and that are just switches. And I don't remember what they are. IIRC, BLHTAZ had some info on that, so you might try searching with BLHTAZ as the user name and the terms of your choice for the search terms.

 

Or just wire it to a toggle switch on the dashboard and control it manually.

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From NAXJA:

 

""If you'll use a late model thermostat housing intended for the factory fans switch you can use a fan switch for an '81 to '82 corvette with a 350 to control your electric fan.

 

Just ask for Borg Warner part #TFS19 or Niehoff part #DR137XL.

 

All you need to do is screw it into the late model thermostat neck, extend two wires to where your original fan switch plugged in.

 

This switch turns the fan on at approximately 215 and off around 195."

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What temperature thermostat would you install next to the switch. If the new switch that will be installed in the thermostat housing would turn on the fan at 215 and off at 195, and the manufacture calls for a thermostat of 195 degrees. Would the auxiliary fan run all the time once the coolant has warmed up to the 195 degree operating temperature? I believe the thermostat that was originally at the end of the radiator cooling where the coolant is suppose to be the coldest had a 195 degree switch. Should I change the thermostat in the housing to a lower temperature one? :dunno: Just trying to think ahead, before problems araise, or am I thinking too much? :doh:

PS what do you consider to be a late model thermostat neck?

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What temperature thermostat would you install next to the switch. If the new switch that will be installed in the thermostat housing would turn on the fan at 215 and off at 195, and the manufacture calls for a thermostat of 195 degrees. Would the auxiliary fan run all the time once the coolant has warmed up to the 195 degree operating temperature? I believe the thermostat that was originally at the end of the radiator cooling where the coolant is suppose to be the coldest had a 195 degree switch. Should I change the thermostat in the housing to a lower temperature one? :dunno: Just trying to think ahead, before problems araise, or am I thinking too much? :doh: PS what do you consider to be a late model thermostat neck?

 

I always use the Mopar OEM 195 degree stat. I have a 91 HO (the start of the late model thermostat neck), thus I have never tried the Corvette switch - just relaying info from NAXJA. And there is always the option of using an open system radiator w. the bung so you could retain your original fan switch. See this thread: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=20088

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Don, his problem is that he already got a used, open system radiator with no bung, so he sort of backed into doing the conversion without realizing what all was involved. Now we're playing catch-up. Part of the probelm is that he's posting part of his question and part of his information in at three or four different threads, so it's dang near impossible for anyone to keep track of where this discussion is going.

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Sorry for causing all this confusion. I will try to keep my threads all together. What year jeep Radiator with an bug on an open system will fit in my 1989 MJ 4.0? So I will know next time? I guess I did not ask enough question before starting the change. I have not had the time to solve this problem yet. But I will. I chasing brake parts now, tying to get my truck back on the road ASAP. Thanks for all your help, this had been a group effort. :bowdown:

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Sorry for causing all this confusion. I will try to keep my threads all together. What year jeep Radiator with an bug on an open system will fit in my 1989 MJ 4.0? So I will know next time?

You won't find it by year. DaimlerChrysler/Jeep changed to the "open" radiator (with filler neck) in 1991. The radiator stayed the same from then through the end of the Cherokee in 2001. The factory "open" radiators did not have the bung.

 

Some aftermarket radiators do have the bung along with the filler neck. It's a matter of shopping until you find one. Perhaps people who have purchased aftermarket "open" radiators new can post what brand they got and whether or not it has the bung.

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I have been following this and I had a similar problem, I am using a 3 position switch (on, off,and on by-way-of the sensor). I also broke my thermostat housing and replaced it with a newer housing that has a bung for the temp sensor. I have been looking for the same sensor and was going to just get one from SPAL. I would like to thank hornbrod for posting up the info so those of us that are in this position can do it our way.

 

Eagle, (you will probably erase this) shut the hell up about the toggle switch, that was not the original question. If I have 5 different questions (or problems) I am going to post 5 different threads. He was looking for a part number, you didn't have that number, but you replied anyway. Go back to pirate with that bs :clapping:

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Eagle, (you will probably erase this) shut the hell up about the toggle switch, that was not the original question. If I have 5 different questions (or problems) I am going to post 5 different threads. He was looking for a part number, you didn't have that number, but you replied anyway. Go back to pirate with that bs :clapping:

Excuse my asking, but can you explain exactly why suggesting a very simple way for someone to get his truck running with access to the aux fan by a toggle switch while he searches for the magic sensor that nobody has been able to find over the course of the last ten years BS?

 

I'm trying to help him get his truck running with a minimum of hassle. What are you trying to do?

 

As to multiple threads, I have no problem with five threads for five questions. Mr. Collins hijacked three different threads with the SAME question, which spread the discussion of one question all over the board.

 

I don't hang out on Pirate. Perhaps you should stay there if you can't behave civilly here.

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Some aftermarket radiators do have the bung along with the filler neck. It's a matter of shopping until you find one. Perhaps people who have purchased aftermarket "open" radiators new can post what brand they got and whether or not it has the bung.

 

Since I use all electric fans, I'm not a fan of toggle switches that rely on me constantly monitoring the temp gauge. :nuts: My engine is worth more to me than that. I am a fan though to use toggle switches as an overide protection device if my auto fan sensors/switches fail. The link below is the open system rad I've been using coming up on four years now for the stroker. It will work well for converting Renix cooling systems since it retains the fan switch bung hole. About halfway down the page: The Jeep Cherokee #9168. It's an all aluminum single core. I tried the 3-cores and this one does much better cooling due to better flow.

http://www.alumrad.com/dblpass.html

 

The bung hole w. plug is pictured below.

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Sorry Eagle I was not trying to hijack threads, but as I state I was only trying to help the guy, along with solving my own problem. i won't hijack anyont threads

Robert AKA MR. Collins this sounds to serious try something else :chillin:

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Eagle, (you will probably erase this) shut the hell up about the toggle switch, that was not the original question. If I have 5 different questions (or problems) I am going to post 5 different threads. He was looking for a part number, you didn't have that number, but you replied anyway. Go back to pirate with that bs :clapping:

Excuse my asking, but can you explain exactly why suggesting a very simple way for someone to get his truck running with access to the aux fan by a toggle switch while he searches for the magic sensor that nobody has been able to find over the course of the last ten years BS?

 

I'm trying to help him get his truck running with a minimum of hassle. What are you trying to do?

 

As to multiple threads, I have no problem with five threads for five questions. Mr. Collins hijacked three different threads with the SAME question, which spread the discussion of one question all over the board.

 

I don't hang out on Pirate. Perhaps you should stay there if you can't behave civilly here.

 

toggle switch statement is post 10 (or so) but the answer he was looking for was in the 3rd post, so how are you helping more?? :huh???:

 

I saw all 3 threads and the answer was not clearly given, but it was on this thread.

 

You would fit right in on Pirate :ack:

 

I like that--"what are you trying to do??" Enlighten me, what do you think I am trying to do? I am not post padding like you, I don't answer questions that I don't know the answer to, and if someone wants their truck to have a working coolant switch to turn on the fan, who are you to tell them differently? I really don't think everyone wants to have their truck exactly like yours.

soapbox.gif

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toggle switch statement is post 10 (or so) but the answer he was looking for was in the 3rd post, so how are you helping more?? :huh???:

You mean this?

 

Just ask for Borg Warner part #TFS19 or Niehoff part #DR137XL.

The Corvette sensor? The one that doesn't operate at the right temperature range for what he needs? THAT part number?

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wow. are you two finished yet? :hmm: take a breath, have a beer, and chill a bit. You don't need to voice that much anger over a simple disagreement. also, that's what PMs are for.

 

:cheers:

 

 

for what it's worth, it's not difficult to wire the fan (through a relay) to a keyed hot source. Then the fan is simply on with the truck. :yes:

My 88's is through a toggle, but I run it all the time with no ill effects. I went with a toggle so i could run the fan independent of the ignition.

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I am just pointing out that Eagle is not helping someone in need, I have reviewed some of his other posts and wonder what he has contributed to solving the problem at hand. I can just post up toggle switches answer all problems, but that is not right for everyone either.

 

The temp sensor that was posted might not have been the right temp for his exact needs, but would have been better than a toggle switch. I might even put that in my Jeep and even do a DIY writeup on it, so you can come over there and tell me that I too only need a toggle switch.

 

 

 

Pete, thank you for running this site, I am sure that it keeps you very busy. I was pointing out that Eagle needs to shut up every now and then. :yes:

 

time for another

:cheers:

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I believe Eagle was trying to help. I've never known him to not try to help. That's why he's here after all. That's why we're all here. :cheers:

I guess there's no way to know whether or not the OP has contemplated a toggle yet (through a relay of course). :dunno: Instead of ripping on Eagle, you could have simply answered the guy's question. Eagle's opinion is to run a toggle. duly noted. now what's your input?

I did a quick internet search for that sensor and it would appear that it would turn on, and stay on forever. At least on my trucks it would. None of them run cooler than 220, let alone 200 and that sensor shuts off at 195. Sounds like he might as well just hard wire it in. :hmm:

 

 

Actually, I do have something productive to add to all this. I don't have a clue where it came from, but a previous owner of my 88 install the fan temp sensor in a pipe in the middle of the lower rad hose. i.e. the hose was cut and the tube was inserted and the tube had a bung in it. I'll see if I have a photo showing it

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Actually, I do have something productive to add to all this. I don't have a clue where it came from, but a previous owner of my 88 install the fan temp sensor in a pipe in the middle of the lower rad hose. i.e. the hose was cut and the tube was inserted and the tube had a bung in it. I'll see if I have a photo showing it

Pete, some aftermarket company (I'm sorry, I don't remember which one) used to offer that lower hose insert as a part. Several folks on NAXJA used it for just this purpose.

 

Naturally, it was discontinued about four or five years ago. Don't know if any other company has picked up on the idea.

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